Free Crochet Patterns, Crochet Classes & Techniques

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Criss Cross Cotton Facecloth – Free Crochet Pattern & Video

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Here is my free crochet washcloth pattern, however, please don’t let the “wordyness” of the pattern or length of the video put you off! This really is a quick and easy crochet project which makes the perfect gift or colour coordinated accessorise for your home.

I’m not even sure how I managed to make a 45 minute video just about a flannel but hopefully you might find some of my explanations, demonstrations and tips useful.

I’ve included a menu here of where you can find the key points in the video in case you have neither the time or inclination to watch the whole thing.

Free Crochet Washcloth Pattern Details

A simple facecloth in single crochet – made special with a slip stitch surface design in a contrasting colour & finished with a textured, reverse single crochet border. Make it in soft cotton for the perfect, colour coordinated bathroom accessory. I have also made pairs of flannels, in opposite colours, with matching, handmade soap as gifts.

Pattern Format: 
Pattern is written in US crochet terminology and includes photos and mini tutorials for some of the techniques involved. A video is also available here.

Gauge: 
Gauge is 16 sts & 20 rows in single crochet.

Finished dimensions: 
If you crochet to gauge, the flannel is a generous 28cm x 28cm.

Materials:

  • Aran or Worsted Cotton Yarn in 2 colours (each cloth uses 106.0 meters / 115.9 yards in Colour A & 48.5 meters / 53.0 yards in Colour B).
  • Hook – 4mm
  • Tapestry or wool needle.
  • Stitch markers or scrap yarn.

Make to sell: 
You may make these wash-cloths to sell, either for charity or personal profit if you are a small scale crafter. All I ask is that you place the following text credit, either in your online listing or on a small piece of paper with the finished item: Design from www.mezzacraft.com

Other standard copyright laws apply.

Download Pattern

From Ravelry
From www.mezzacraft.com

Video Index

  • Starting chain 2:10
  • Single Crochet edging 6:30
  • Marking the horizontal lines 18:00
  • How to Slip Stitch Crochet horizontally on the fabric 20:45
  • Marking the vertical lines 26:10
  • How to Slip Stitch Crochet vertically on the fabric 27:45
  • Slip Stitch Crochet intersection 29:15
  • How to make the Crab Stitch / Reverse Single Crochet border 33:20
  • Finishing the horizontal & vertical Slip Stitch lines & sew in ends 43:50

I love to hear from you, so if you have made my free crochet washcloth pattern, please do share! I’m on Instagram as @mezzamay – mark your projects #mezzacraftcrochet !

I’m also happy to receive any feedback you may have about my patterns.

Thank you!

Mini Crochet Pumpkins – Free Pattern QUICK & EASY

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This little crochet pumpkin pattern goes back to 2017. I wrote it as a little side project for my crochet students. The original prototypes I made are still in my son’s toy box and every now and then when I see one kicking around, I think to myself “I must publish this pattern one day”. Yesterday, my youngest son’s 2 year old cousin came to play. He found a little pumpkin in Marco’s toy box and carried it around for most of his visit! So thank you Javier, you have inspired me!

I have two sizes here, but once you get the basic concept, you can easily make different sizes and experiment with different thicknesses of yarn and corresponding hook sizes – generally speaking, you need a smaller hook size than you’d normally use to get a tighter gauge so that your stuffing doesn’t fall out!

Pattern (US Crochet Terminology)

Materials:

Key:

  • beg – beginning
  • ch – chain
  • dc – double crochet
  • inc – increase (2sc in one stitch)
  • rem – remaining
  • sc – single crochet
  • st(s)– stitch(es)
  • sl st – slip stitch

Size:

Approx 5cm / 2″ x 5cm / 2″ including the stalk.

Crochet Instructions

Row 1 : Leaving a long tail (approx 12cm or 5 inches), ch13, working into the back ridges only, dc in 3rd ch from hook; dc into each remaining ch. (12 sts)

Row 2 : ch2, turn work, without skipping any sts at the beginning of the row, dc into each st to end. (12 sts)

Note – the ch2 at the beginning of this and all subsequent rows is not counted as a stitch, nor will you ever work into it.

Repeat row 2 until it’s square (fig.1) – you can check this by folding the corner with the tail up towards its opposite side (fig.2).

Now, count how many rows you have made. Times this by 1.5 (round up where necessary). This is how many more rows you need to crochet.

e.g. my piece was square at 5 rows. So 5 x 1.5 = 7.5. Round that up to 8. Add that to the rows I’ve already made = 13 rows in total.

Once you’ve made the required number of rows, fold the strip in half so the top and bottom are lined up.
Ch1 and join with sc, going through both loops of the front and back stitches simultaneously (fig. 3).

Once you’ve finished seaming, fasten off, leaving a nice long tail for gathering the top of the pumpkin (fig. 4). Turn inside out so the crochet seam in on the inside.

seaming two edges of crochet together with single crochet and leaving a long tail

Thread the tail onto a needle and sew a running stitch through the first and last stitches of the rows – here I’ve done approximately one stitch per row (fig. 5).

Now pull the thread tight, gathering the top of the pumpkin together as tightly as possible. Fasten securely and sew the tail inside the pumpkin (fig. 6).

sewing and gathering the bottom of the crocheted pumpkin

Thread the tail at the other end and sew a running stitch along the first and last stitches of the rows, as before.
Stuff the pumpkin with Kapok or your choice of toy stuffing (fig. 7).

Pull the thread tight and fasten off securely. Weave in ends. (fig. 8)

stuffing the crochet pumpkin with kapok and sewing up the end

Stalk

Row 1 : Leaving a long tail, ch7 (fig. 9), working into the back ridges, sc 2nd ch from hook; sc into each remaining ch.

Row 2 : ch1, turn work, sc into each st (fig. 10).

Join : ch1 fold work along longest side and then sl st the sides together. Because the slip stitch has a tighter gauge, it should cause your stalk to curve
(fig. 11) . Leave another long tail and fasten off.

Use these long tails to attach the stalk to the pumpkin by threading through the top gathered hole all the way through the middle to the bottom. Secure by sewing and knotting. You can even make a French knot with your needle to make the little nodule at the bottom of the pumpkin (fig. 12).

crocheting a stalk out of brown yarn and bottom of a small pumpkin with a french knot

Weave in all ends.

For a slightly larger sized pumpkin

Make as above but chain 17 to start with. For the stalk, ch8.

Three Little Bowls – Free Crochet Pattern

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Little bowl free crochet pattern. I wrote this pattern about 5 years ago when I was teaching a day class for the Surrey Women’s Institute. Since then, I have often used it for 2 hour “taster” classes. Don’t worry – it won’t take you 2 hours to make one of these little bowls! I have made the smaller one in less than 30 minutes. For beginners, it’s great for introducing students to the magic ring and also showing how you can create shaping by increasing and decreasing, or rather, more precisely in the case of this pattern, using a tighter stitch to achieve the same result as a decreasing round. For more experienced crocheters, it’s simply a quick, fun and satisfying little project that returns a utilitarian result. More recently I taught a private class to three ladies at a clients house. This time, I had experimented with multiple strands of yarn and different hook sizes. Each bowl uses the exact same pattern but with a different number of strands of Aran yarn and subsequent hook size. I was so delighted with the different results you can get, simply by adding a strand of yarn and going up a hook size that I thought I’d share the pattern with you all.

I hope you enjoy making these little bowls as much as we did!

For a printable pattern which includes a photo tutorial, or to download and save onto your device, please click here for the US & British version.

Psst… if you like this, you might also like my Mini Basket pattern, which is a spin-off of these little bowls…

Image of completed Crochet Bowls

PATTERN (US CROCHET TERMINOLOGY)

Materials

  • Aran Weight Yarn in 2 colours – A & B (you could also try this with 3 different colours) In total, all three bowls use approx. 84 m / 92 yds.
  • Hooks – 4.5mm, 6mm & 7mm
  • Tapestry or wool needle.
  • Locking stitch marker.

Key

  • beg – beginning
  • ch – chain
  • dc – double crochet
  • inc – increase (2sc in one stitch)
  • prev – previous
  • rem – remaining
  • rnd – round
  • sc – single crochet
  • st s) – stitch(es)
  • sl st – slip stitch

Size

  • Single strand dish : Approx 7cm across & 4.5cm high.
  • Double stranded dish : Approx 9cm across & 5.5cm high.
  • Triple stranded dish :Approx 12cm across &8cm high.

Crochet Instructions

Basic Little Dish Pattern (for detailed instructions, download the printable pattern)

Using the 4.5mm hook & one strand of yarn A, start with a magic ring. Alternatively, ch4 and join to form a ring.
Rnd 1:
ch3; 11 dc in ring; join in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 – 12 dc

Rnd 2:
Ch3, in same st as sl st, work 1dc; 2dc in each rem st; do not join – 24 dc.
Place marker in last stitch. From now on, the piece is worked in a spiral. For each of the subsequent rounds, place marker in the last stitch to help mark the end of the row. Remove the marker when you come to work the stitch and replace when you have made the last stitch.

Rnd 3:
1sc in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 of prev rnd; 1sc in next st; (inc in next st, 1sc in next 2 sts) 7 times; inc in last st – 32 sc

Rnd 4:
1sc in next st; (inc in next st, 1sc in next 3 sts) 7 times; inc in next st, 1sc in next 2 sts – 40 sc

Rnds 5-9:
sc in each st – 40 sc ⑤⑥⑦⑧⑨*

Rnd 10:
sl st in the back loop of each st.
Finish off and weave in all ends.

Double Stranded Little Dish Pattern
Make as the Basic Little Dish pattern, but use 2 strands of yarn B held together & a 6mm hook.

Triple Stranded Little Dish Pattern
Make as the Basic Little Dish pattern, but use 3 strands of yarn (2 of yarn B & 1 of yarn A) held together & a 7mm hook.

*Tip : cross off the rows as you make them.

Make to sell

You may make these bowls to sell, either for charity or personal profit if you are a small scale crafter. All I ask is that you place the following text credit, either in your online listing or on a small piece of paper with the finished item: Design from www.mezzacraft.com

Other standard copyright laws apply.

crochet three strands together

I love to see people’s projects and I encourage you to share the photos of your finished items or WIPS on Instagram using #mezzacraft

Disclosure : my posts can contain affiliated links from which I may receive a small referral fee should you happen to purchase anything.

Mini Basket – Free Crochet Pattern

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Mini basket, free crochet pattern. This handy little crocheted basket design with handles, is a spin off from my “Three Little Bowls” pattern. A quick and simple pattern, this small basket uses three strands of Aran or Worsted weight yarns, held together. You could use three strands of the same colour or three different colours, for a lovely variegated effect. I love using multiple colours because each stitch is unique, depending on how the strands of yarn fall in place. I have used 3 x 50g balls of Drops Alaska (100% wool) in the colours Mustard (58), Light Grey Mix (03) & Off White (02).

It’s an ideal container for knick-knacks, face towels, hair accessories or small toiletries. This little basket is also an ideal craft stall make – sell empty or fill with treats. As with most of my free patterns, you’re welcome to make these to sell, either online or at craft fairs – all I ask is that you include a small tag or piece of paper, acknowledging that the pattern came from www.mezzacraft.com.

The pattern works up quickly and is an ideal “stash buster”!

For printable patterns, or to download and save onto your device, please click here – you’ll also find a version with British crochet terminology.

Warning : this crochet pattern is addictive!

three images of crochet basket with aran yarn

Pattern (US CROCHET TERMINOLOGY)

Materials

Key

  • beg – beginning
  • ch – chain
  • dc – double crochet
  • inc – increase (2sc in one stitch)
  • rem – remaining
  • rnd – round sc – single crochet
  • t(s)– stitch(es)
  • sl st – slip stitch

Size

Finished basket is approximately 19cm / 7 ½ “ wide and 9cm / 3 ½ “ tall

Crochet Instructions

Work holding 3 strands of yarn together.

Start with a magic ring, alternatively, ch4 and join to form a ring.

Rnd 1:
ch3; 11 dc in ring; join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 – 12 dc

Rnd 2:
Ch3, in same st as sl st, work 1dc; 2dc in each rem st; make 1 dc in sl st join from prev rnd; join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch3 – 25 dc.

Rnd 3:

Ch3, in same st as sl st, work 1dc; (1dc in next st, 2dc in next) 12 times; 2dc in last st; DO NOT JOIN – 38 dc.

Place marker in last stitch to help mark the end of the row. From now on, the piece is worked in a spiral. For each of the subsequent rounds, remove the marker when you need to work into the last stitch and then replace it when you’ve worked the last stitch.

Rnd 4:
1sc in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 of previous rnd; 1sc in next st; (inc in next st, 1sc in next 2 sts) 12 times; 1sc in each of rem 2 sts – 50 sc

Rnd 5:
1sc in next st; (inc in next st, 1sc in next 3 sts) 12 times; 1sc in last st – 62 sc

Rnds 6-12:
Sc in each st – 62 sc ⑥⑦⑧⑨⑩⑪⑫*

Rnd 13:

1sc in each of next 6sts; ch8, sk7 sts, 1sc in each of next 24 sts; ch8, sk7 sts, 1sc in each of next 18 sts

Rnd 14:

1sc in each of next 6sts; make 8sc around ch, 1sc in each of next 24 sts; 8sc around ch, 1sc in each of next 18 sts

Rnd 15:
sl st in the back loop of each st.

Finish off and weave in all ends.

*Tip : cross off the rows as you make them.

Disclosure : my posts can contain affiliated links from which I may receive a small referral fee should you happen to purchase anything.

Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go For Half Motif

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Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go For Half Motifs
(US Crochet Terminology)
Here I show you how to make the joins for the half motifs. It’s only slightly different to the granny stitch join for the solid motifs, the two main differences being that the border/join is worked flat, i.e. turned after each row, and that the first and last cluster is made up of 4 stitches rather than 3. I have written out the instructions again, so if you’ve already followed the pattern for the full motif, I apologise for any repetition!
Materials 
Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sk – skip
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
Special stitches & techniques:
sl st join (in ch2 corner space) – insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook.
ch2 sl st join – ch1, insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
join between clusters – after you’ve made a 3dc cluster, insert hook from above into corresponding sp between clusters on adjacent motif, pull up a loop and pull it through the space and through the loop on the (i.e. sl st join).
shared ch2 sl st join – instead of working into a space, you’re working into a previous sl st join so you’ll need to locate the relevant stitch first, ch1, insert hook into sl st, from right to left. Pull up a loop through the slip stitch and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
Crochet Instructions (Abbreviated)

To demonstrate the technique, I’m using the four motifs previously made and turned them around 45 degrees. I’ve made 8 half motifs, ready to join.
half or triangle crochet motifs in position ready for join

E – Granny Stitch Border & Join for Half Motif

The border is worked in rows, along the two shortest sides of the triangle. Here it’s joined along one side of an adjacent motif and into a shared corner.
Round 1: With WRONG SIDE FACING Join yarn into first dc st of your “Half Solid Granny Square” motif; ch3 (counts as 1dc), 3dc in same st [fig1]; *(sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 3 times [fig2]; sk3dc*; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made* [fig3]; repeat from * to * once more; in last remaining st, i.e. a ch3, in 3rd ch – 4dc [fig3]
You should have: 4 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner, 1 x 4dc cluster at start & finish.
crochet instructions for granny stitch join with half motif
Round 2: ch3, TURN WORK [fig5]; make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, 3dc in same st [fig6]; continue round 2 as per pattern, remembering to join between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the next corner [fig7]; 3dc in ch2 sp, make a shared ch2 sl st join into adjacent motifs, 3dc in corner sp [fig8]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 3 times; sk3dc, last remaining st is a ch3 [fig9], in 3rd ch – 4dc; fasten off [fig10].
round two of half motif granny stitch join

F – Granny Stitch Border & Join for Half Motif

Here the border is joined along both sides including a shared corner join.
Round 1: As E
Round 2: ch3, TURN WORK [fig11]; make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, 3dc in same st [fig12]; continue round 2 as per pattern, remembering to join between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the next corner [fig13]; 3dc in ch2 sp, make a shared ch2 sl st join into adjacent motifs, 3dc in corner sp [fig14]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the last remaining st [fig15]– this is a ch3, in 3rd ch – 3dc, make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, ch3, sl st in same st as 3dc just made; fasten off [fig16].
granny stitch crochet join for triangle motifJoin the remaining 6 half motifs in the same way as F & G. Don’t worry if the edges of your granny stitch border join & half motifs don’t look particularly neat, this will be redressed when we crochet the final borders.solid squares and triangle crochet motifs joined
If you’d like to see more of my crochet work and current knitting/crochet projects I’m currently working on, please do follow me on instagram. I’m mezzamay. And if you happen to make any of my patterns, don’t forget to tag your posts #mezzacraft .

Sewing In Ends Of Crochet Projects

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I often get asked how I weave in my ends and what is the best way to sew in ends of crocheted projects so that they don’t come undone or look messy. I’ve put together this post to show you how I’m weaving in the ends of a project. The project features solid granny motifs and the traditional granny stitch. It also deals in particular with very short ends which can be difficult to handle. It’s not a definitive guide – I’m just sharing with you how I do it.

Projects using multiple motifs are a great favourite of mine. I know other crocheters also love making motifs but are put off by all the ends that need sewing in. This is a time consuming task which is made all the more daunting when you are not really sure how to do it.

How do you make sure it’s secure?

In my experience, the key to a securely hidden end is to sew in one direction, then back on itself in the opposite direction, whilst making sure a stitch is caught or sewn over so that you’re not just undoing the stitch you’ve just made. I use a standard wool needle for knitters. It has a large eye and relatively blunt tip. Specifically, I use Pony Gold Eye Sewing Needles.

To start with, I always make the first step of securing the ends while crocheting. I.e. when I actually join the new yarn colour to the project. I do this by crocheting over the tail end for 3 or 4 stitches. Initially this doesn’t seem a very secure start. Worry not, as the final sewn step keeps everything in place. This works well with solid stitch patterns and clusters but is often not possible when you’re making a lacy or very open pattern. In these instances, you’ll need to employ other strategies.

If you’ve managed to catch the end in during crocheting, you only need to sew it back on itself again. Remember to catch in or skip over the first strand so that you’re not undoing the stitch.

How do you deal with very short ends?

When you have a short tail to sew in, start with the needle in the fabric/stitches where you want to sew and then thread the needle. I tend to use my thumb nail to push the yarn through the eye.

In most cases, sewing in one direction and then the other is enough to ensure the work doesn’t come undone. Don’t forget to skip a strand of yarn when you change direction (see second image above). However, if you’re making something for a baby, or a gift or a paid commission, you may want to add an extra step. I.e. change direction and sew back again before trimming the yarn. If you’ve got a very short tail, carefully pull the needle through, without un-threading it. Then use the eye of the needle to sew back on itself. This technique is not advisable if your needle is sharp!

How do you ensure it looks neat?

I always try to sew the ends into a congested area of stitches, such as a corner or cluster. I find this offers the most secure spot and the tail end finds it difficult to wriggle.

Sometimes, such as here, where the corners of the four motifs join, there is no congested area to conceal a tail end. Instead I make a running stitch into the post of an adjacent stitch – here it’s a double crochet, until I came to a denser area suitable for sewing into.

For both methods, I find it best to work from the back of the fabric. I check the front occasionally to make sure I haven’t left any visible stitches that might blemish my work on the right side. It is also important to ensure your sewing matches the gauge of your crochet pattern. After each sewn stitch, I gently pull the fabric to make sure my weaving in isn’t creating any pulls or puckering.

Lastly, I like to use a small pair of sewing scissors to CAREFULLY snip off the remaining tail end. Sadly, I have had disasters in the past. Once, coming to the last few threads, I managed to cut a hole in a project when I was rushing and excited to finish!

Project details:
  • This is a large wrap made using a modified version of the Blue Buoy Blanket pattern.
  • The pattern for the three row solid granny square can be found here.
  • The traditional granny stitch border an join can be found here.
  • KnitPro Zing Hook – size 3.25mm.
  • Yarn is sock weight/fingering yarn from Posh Yarn …25 different hand dyed shades in total!

And here’s a video.

New 4 Week Learn To Crochet Course – 19th January – 9th February 2019

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Do you want to learn to crochet?
I am running a new beginner’s course at the Riverhouse Arts Centre in Walton-on-Thames starting January 2019.

This course is for you if :

  • You have never crocheted before.
  • You have crocheted in the past but are a bit rusty or you would like to build your confidence with basic stitches.
  • You are self taught either from books and/or the internet and want to clarify areas that you are unsure of or worried that you might be doing incorrectly.

I use a specially developed small project to teach you how to make a solid granny square.
You will learn all the essential techniques that can be applied to most basic projects such as:

  • choosing the right size hook and yarn
  • how to hold your hook and yarn
  • chaining
  • slip stitch, single & double crochet
  • how to make a square
  • how to change colours
  • how to join motifs using sewing and crochet
  • how to make a cord
  • how to finish off

The course includes:
4 x 2 hour practical classes, spread over 4 weeks.
Detailed class notes including photos to help you practise at home.
Email support during the duration of the course.

Course dates:
Saturday 15th September 2018 – Saturday 8th October 2018, 15:30 – 17:30.

Week 1: Saturday 19th January 2019, 15:30 – 17:30
Week 2: Saturday 26th January 2019, 15:30 – 17:30.
Week 3: Saturday 2nd February 2019, 15:30 – 17:30.
Week 4: Saturday 9th February 2019, 15:30 – 17:30.

Please note: You can still get a lot out of the course, even if you have to skip some of the weeks, however,  Week 1 & Week 2 are obligatory.

Cost: £50

Booking:
Please complete the online booking form from here. Full payment of the course is required to secure your place and places are given on a “first paid” basis

Materials required:
3.5mm crochet hook.
200g of DK cotton yarn, preferably in at least two different colours. I would strongly recommend using Stylecraft Classique Cotton or Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK. (Acrylic, chunky and novelty yarns are not the best choice for learning).
Wool/tapestry needle.

I can provide the materials above as a starter kit for £12 which can be purchased at the first class (please order beforehand).

This is a great way to learn a new hobby in a friendly setting where you can meet other students with similar interests as well as supporting your local arts centre!

To express an interest or for more details, please contact me.

I also list my classes on Meetup.

Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join for Three Round Solid Squares

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Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go For Full Motifs
(US Crochet Terminology)
As per my Blue Buoy Blanket, here I’m using the classic 3 double crochet granny cluster stitch as a two row border and joining with the last round to adjacent squares with slip stitches. Although this can be seen as a no-sew option, there will still be quite a few ends to weave in. To make this less of a chore, I tend to try and discipline myself to sew in ends after certain milestones. E.g. after I’ve joined 10 motifs, I’ll spend time sewing in the ends before I allow myself to do any more of the fun bits, i.e. crocheting!
To demonstrate the granny stitch border and joining technique, I am making a cushion cover which is made up of 4 square motifs and 8 half/triangle motifs. Once you have mastered the basic principle, it’s pretty easy to scale this up to larger items such as blankets or wraps.
At this point, I would like to say that I have not had this pattern tested or tech edited. Please do let me know if you have any issues or need any help. This crochet tutorial just covers joining the full, square motifs. Thank you!
Materials 
Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sk – skip
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
Special stitches & techniques:
sl st join (in ch2 corner space) – insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook.
ch2 sl st join – ch1, insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
join between clusters – after you’ve made a 3dc cluster, insert hook from above into corresponding sp between clusters on adjacent motif, pull up a loop and pull it through the space and through the loop on the (i.e. sl st join).
shared ch2 sl st join – instead of working into a space, you’re working into a previous sl st join so you’ll need to locate the relevant stitch first, ch1, insert hook into sl st, from right to left. Pull up a loop through the slip stitch and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
A note about joins:
A join shouldn’t be too loose so that the work looks sloppy, but neither should it be pulled too tightly as this will affect the flexibility and make the work stiff. Importantly, you don’t want the slip stitch too tight as you may need to work back into it for a shared join.
Crochet Instructions (Abbreviated)
A – Granny Stitch Border (Without Join)
Round 1: Join yarn into any ch2 corner of your “Solid Granny Square” motif; ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; *sk3dc, 3dc in next st; (sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 2 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made*;  repeat from * to * 3 times; sk3dc, 3dc in next st; (sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 2 times; working back into the first corner sp – 2dc, join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4. (5 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner)
Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; *(sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made*; repeat from * to * 3 times; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters; working back into the first corner sp – 2dc, join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off. [fig1]  (6 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner)
granny stitch crochet border & join layout
B – Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join
The motif is joined along one side and to two corners of motif A.
Round 1: As A.granny stitch join step by step instructions
Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc [fig2], make a ch2 sl st join into motif A, as follows: ch1, insert hook from above into ch2 sp of the bottom left hand corner of motif A [fig3], pull up a loop and pull it through ch2 corner sp and through loop on hook (sl st join) [fig4], ch1; 3dc in corner sp [fig5]; continue round 2, joining between clusters to motif A as follows: * insert hook from above into adjacent sp between clusters on motif A [fig6], pull up a loop and pull it through sp and loop on hook (sl st join) [fig7]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters [fig8]; *; repeat from * to * 4 times; sl st join between adjacent clusters on motif A [fig9]; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top left hand corner of motif A; 3dc in corner sp [fig10]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; finish off first corner – 2dc into corner sp; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off [fig11].
granny stitch crochet border instructions
C – Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join
The motif is joined along one side and to two corners of motif A, including a shared corner join with motif B.
Round 1: As A.
Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times [fig12]; in ch2 corner sp– 3dc, make a shared ch2 sl st join into join of A & B, as follows: ch1, insert hook, from right to left, through sl st join [fig13], pull up a loop and pull it through the sl st join and the loop on hook, ch1 [fig14]; 3dc in corner sp [fig15]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to motif A; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top right hand corner of motif A [fig16]; 3dc in corner sp; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; finish off first corner – 2dc into corner sp; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off [fig17].
granny stitch join tutorial
D – Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join
The motif is joined along two sides and at three corner points, including a shared corner join with motif A,B & C.
Round 1: As A.
Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) [fig18]; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top left corner of motif B; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to motif B [fig19]; in ch2 corner sp– 3dc [fig20], make a shared ch2 sl st join into join of A, B & C, 3dc [fig21]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to motif C; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top left corner of motif C [fig22]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; finish off first corner – 2dc into corner sp; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off. [fig23]
traditional granny stitch border and join for square motifs
For instructions of how to join the half motifs, please see this post.
Ideas & Suggestions

There are lots of ways you could utilise and modify this simple border and join:

  1. Luxurious Wrap – Make use of your hand-dyed sock yarn scraps to crochet small, solid squares and then use another luxury 4ply & the Granny Stitch Border to join it all together.
  2. More Granny – love the granny stitch? It’s easy enough to increase the number of rows from 2 to 3 or 4… maybe more! This would give a different look which I’d love to see.
  3. Try it in craft cotton or string to make a market bag or re-usable shopping bag.
  4. How would it look in variegated yarn?
  5. Or how about a funky top? Make two simple rectangles, slightly wider than your bust…seam shoulders and sides for a colourful addition to your wardrobe!

As always, I love seeing what you’ve made or if you’d like to share your ideas, please do get in touch or tag your projects #mezzacraft if you use Instagram.

 

Half Motif – Three Round Granny Square – Free Crochet Pattern

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half solid granny square triangle crochet motif turquoiseThree Round Solid Granny Square Half Motif –  Crochet Pattern
(US Crochet Terminology)

This half square crochet pattern features in my Blue Buoy blanket pattern and it’s used to fill the edges and make the corners of the blanket.  I really love how turning a simple square motif through 90 degrees gives a whole new look!

You can find instructions for the full square by clicking here.

Materials
3.5mm/E/4 hook
DK 100% Cotton (Paintbox)

Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch

Crochet Instructions (Abbreviated)

This motif is worked flat, i.e. turning each row.

ch5, join with sl st in first chain to form a ring.

Row 1 : ch 3 (counts as 1dc in this and all subsequent rounds); 4dc in ring; ch2; 5dc in ring. (2x 5dc sts & 1x ch2 sp)

Row 2 : ch3, TURN WORK; 2dc in first st; 1dc in each of rem 4sts; in ch2 corner sp – 2dc, ch2, 2dc – corner made;  1dc in each of next 4sts; 3dc in last st. (2x 9dc sts & 1x ch2 sps)

Row 3 : ch3, TURN WORK; 2dc in first st; 1dc in each of rem 8sts; in ch2 corner sp – 2dc, ch2, 2dc – corner made;  1dc in each of next 8sts; 3dc in last st. Fasten off. (2x 13dc sts & 1x ch2 sps)

 

 

In upcoming posts I’ll be showing you how to make the granny stitch joins and also how to crochet the border.

Disclosure : I use affiliate links for my favourite yarns and other accessories!

 

 

Three Round Solid Granny Square – Free Crochet Pattern

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Three Round Solid Granny Square Full Motif –  Crochet Pattern
(US Crochet Terminology)

Three Row Solid Granny Square Blanket Motif - Free Crochet Pattern

This simple crochet square is quick and easy to make and is a great foundation for many projects, including my Blue Buoy blanket, named after one of my favourite places in my home town, Porthleven.

It’s a great way to use up scraps of yarn and it’s pretty easy to adjust the size, making the square bigger by adding extra rounds.
I’ve used one of my favourite yarns for baby blankets – Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK which comes in an amazing array of colours. My squares, using a 3.5mm hook come out at about 8cm / 3 inches across. Each square uses 4g or 1.6 metres of yarn (so I can get about 12 squares out of each ball). The size of your square and yardage may vary depending on your gauge.

The colours I’ve used for the squares in my blanket are as follow:

Sky Blue (439), Lime Green (429), Marine Blue (434), Washed Teal (433) & Dolphin Blue (437).

Here’s the basic pattern for the three row version:

Required Materials
3.5mm/E/4 hook
DK 100% Cotton (Paintbox)

Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch

Crochet Instructions

The motif is worked in the round.

ch4, join with sl st in first chain to form a ring.

Round 1 : ch 4 (counts as 1dc & ch2 sp – please see note below); (4dc in ring; ch2) 3 times; 3dc in ring and join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 4. (4x 4dc sts & 4x ch2 sps)

note: often 1dc & a ch2 space is represented by a chain 5 – I find this leaves a really big hole at the beginning of the round. To address this, I switch to a ch4 and when I come to finish off the round, sl st in the 3rd chain. You can either ch4 or ch5 – please use whichever looks best with your style of crochet – this applies to the start of all the rounds!

Round 2 : sl st into ch2 sp; ch 4 (counts as 1dc & ch2 sp), 2dc in same sp – partial corner made; (1dc in each of next 4sts; in ch2 corner sp – 2dc, ch2, 2dc – corner made) 3 times; 1dc in each of rem 4sts; in first corner – dc; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4. (4x 8dc sts & 4x ch2 sps)

Round 3 : sl st into ch2 sp; ch 4 (counts as 1dc & ch2 sp), 2dc in same sp – partial corner made; (1dc in each of next 8sts; in ch2 corner sp – 2dc, ch2, 2dc – corner made) 3 times; 1dc in each of rem 8sts; in first corner – dc; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4. Fasten off. (4x 12dc sts & 4x ch2 sps)

Click here for my free crochet pattern for my three round solid granny half motif.

Variations

You could also make this solid granny square crochet pattern using different weights of yarn, below are suggestions of the hook size :

  • 4ply / Sock Yarn – 3mm/C/2
  • Aran / Worsted Yarn – 5mm/H/8

Remember, the yardage and size of the finished motif will vary.

Disclosure : I use affiliate links for my favourite yarns and other accessories!