Free Crochet Patterns, Crochet Classes & Techniques

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New 4 Week Learn To Crochet Course – 21st September 2019

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Do you want to learn to crochet?


I am running a new beginner’s course at the Riverhouse Arts Centre in Walton-on-Thames starting September 2019.

This course is for you if :

  • – You have never crocheted before.
    – You have crocheted in the past but are a bit rusty or you would like to build your confidence with basic stitches.
    – You are self taught either from books and/or the internet and want to clarify areas that you are unsure of or worried that you might be doing incorrectly.

I use a specially developed small project to teach you how to make a solid granny square.
You will learn all the essential techniques that can be applied to most basic projects such as:

  • choosing the right size hook and yarn
  • how to hold your hook and yarn
  • chaining
  • slip stitch, single & double crochet
  • how to make a square
  • how to change colours
  • how to join motifs using sewing and crochet
  • how to make a cord
  • how to finish off

The course includes:
4 x 2 hour practical classes, spread over 4 weeks.
All materials, including yarn, hooks and project bag.
Detailed class notes including photos to help you practise at home.
Email support during the duration of the course.

Course dates:
Saturday 21st September 2019 – Saturday 19th October 2019, 15:30 – 17:30. Please note: there is no class on Saturday 5th October.

Week 1: Saturday 21st September 2019, 15:30 – 17:30
Week 2: Saturday 28th September 2019, 15:30 – 17:30.
Week 3: Saturday 12th October 2019, 15:30 – 17:30.
Week 4: Saturday 19th October 2019, 15:30 – 17:30.

Cost: £60 (includes all the required materials)

Booking:
Please complete the online booking form from here. Full payment of the course is required to secure your place and places are given on a “first paid” basis.

What you might want to bring:

  • Notepad & pen.
  • Scissors.
  • Drink.

This is a great way to learn a new hobby in a friendly setting where you can meet other students with similar interests as well as supporting your local arts centre!

To express an interest or for more details, please contact me.

I also list my classes on Meetup.

FAQ:

Q: I would like to attend your course but I am not able to make all the classes.
A : You can still get a lot out of the course, even if you have to skip some of the weeks, however,  Week 1 & Week 2 are mandatory. The full cost of the course also applies, even if you can only make some of the classes.

Q: I do not need the starter kit as I have my own yarn and hooks.
A: After many years of teaching crochet to beginners, I have found that the hooks and yarn used make a massive difference to how easily the student picks up the technique and how much they enjoy the experience. Students that bring unsuitable equipment invariably end up frustrated so I have made the decision to provide and include all the materials in the cost of the course.

Q: I am a knitter. I’d like to crochet but I’m worried I won’t be able to.
A: Yes, I have come across this concern many times. There still seems to be a misconception that you either knit or crochet… of course you can do both! Often those with previous experience of knitting or other types of handicrafts can find picking up a new skill relatively easy.

Q: I use a wheelchair, is there wheelchair access to the studio?
A: Yes, there is a ramp into the studio. Please get in touch when you book and I will double check with the staff at the Riverhouse that everything is set up correctly for you.

Q: The dates of this course don’t suit me, will you be running another course and if so, when?
A: I usually run my beginners classes twice a year on Saturdays in September and January. If you are not free on Saturdays, I offer one-to-one classes from my home studio. I can also teach small, private groups of up to 4 people if you have friends/family that would like to join you. Please contact me for more information.

Crochet Lucet Cord Tutorial

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Throughout the years I’ve taught crochet , there have been many projects where a cord is required. There are many options for making cords and having tried various methods, I’ve found that the Crochet Lucet Cord or Four Sided Chain is my favourite option for the following reasons:

  1. You don’t need any special equipment – yes, you can make a lucet cord without a lucet!
  2. You can use the hook you’re already using for your project.
  3. The technique is easy to memorise.
  4. Once you get a rhythm going, the cord works up pretty quickly.
  5. It makes a firm and thick cord.
  6. The finished cord is flexible yet strong.
  7. It’s very attractive – it looks like a four sided chain.

Materials

  • Yarn – thicker is better for a good effect. I’m using a DK weight yarn doubled up (Paintbox Cotton DK in Melon Sorbet).
  • A crochet hook – in this example I’m using a 3.5mm hook (Clover Amour). Use a slightly smaller hook than you’d normally use for the yarn thickness otherwise the stitches in the cord can end up being too slack.

How much yarn will I need for my cord?

You’ll need about 9 x the finished length of your cord.
E.g. desired cord is 30cm /12 inches long, so I’ll need 2.7 m / 3 yards of yarn or 2 x 2.7 m / 3 yards if you’re doubling up.

Crochet Instructions

  • Wind off a separate ball of yarn from your main skein to make a double thickness thread – tie the ends together to keep them together to start with.
  • With the tail end to the left, lay the yarn on a flat surface in an “arc” shape (fig. 1).
  • Fold over the top of the arc (fig. 2) , to make 2 “loops”.
  • Insert the hook into the right loop, from above, then, coming from underneath, bring the hook up through the left loop (fig. 3) .
orange cotton dk yarn showing steps to making a crochet lucet cord
  • Pull the loops tight on the hook (fig. 4).
  • Rearrange the yarn – move the working end of the yarn over the left and hold the tail end as if to make a chain (fig. 5).
  • Yarn over and pull a loop through the first loop on the hook, i.e. ch1 with the left loop (fig. 5).
red crochet hook and orange cotton yarn showing how to make a crochet lucet cord
  • Carefully remove this loop from the hook (fig. 7).
  • Pinch this loop between your thumb and middle finger (or forefinger if you use your middle finger to feed the yarn) to stop it coming undone when you work the next stitch (fig. 8).
  • Ch1 with the right loop (fig. 9).
  • Replace the left loop on the hook (fig. 10)…
  • …and ch1 with the left loop (fig. 11).
  • Continue in this way, i.e. drop & hold left loop, ch1 right loop, replace left loop; ch1 left loop…until the cord measures desired length (fig. 12).
  • To finish off, after a ch1 left loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through both the left and right loops (fig. 13).
  • Cut the yarn, yarn over and pull through the loop on the hook and all the way out. Pull tight (fig. 14).
  • Tie a tight knot in each end and trim, or as in this example, you could also add a bead at each end for a decorative effect (fig. 15).
hands crocheting a lucet cord using yellow cotton yarn

TIP : To even out the cord, roll it between your fingers and pull it gently all along is length. This makes a big difference to the look of the cord – making it firmer and smoother.

You can also find a video of this technique on my YouTube channel:

Disclosure

I sometimes use affiliate links to my favourite yarns, hooks and other craft materials.

Perfect Crochet Picot Stitch – Tutorial

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I’ve put together this tutorial showing you how to get the perfect picot stitch. When I first started crocheting, I struggled to get my picot stitches looking right… they didn’t stand up straight and they weren’t symmetrical. There are quite a few different ways to make a crochet picot stitch – you’ll be especially aware of this if you have ever made Irish Crochet. Eventually, after much trial and error, I started making them the way I’ll describe below – this method consistently gives me a satisfying, even, symmetrical and upright set of picots!

In the following crochet tutorial, I am adding the picot stitch trim to my “Mesh Soap Bag”, which is a free pattern.

3 Single Crochet & Chain 3 Picot Stitch Pattern

This is a simple stitch pattern of 3sc, ch3 picot. In the round it’s a 3 stitch repeat and worked flat it’s a 3 stitch repeat + 2.

The stitch pattern looks like this, in a chart format:

crochet chart showing symbols for a chain 3 picot stitch pattern

If you’re unfamiliar with crochet charts : the crosses are the single crochet stitches & the three loops and dot represent the chain 3 and slip stitch

chart showing 3 single crochet & chain 3 picot with the picot highlighted with a red circle

Instructions

Make 3sc and then make the picot as follows: chain 3, then hold the chain at the back of the work and into the last sc made FROM THE BACK OF THE STITCH, TO THE FRONT – slip stitch, pulling the slip stitch tight before proceeding with the pattern repeat, i.e. 3sc, ch3 picot … as many times are required!

I have also made a “Perfect Crochet Picot Stitch” video tutorial, which you can find here, on my Mezzamay YouTube channel:

Project Info

Disclosure

I sometimes use affiliate links to my favourite yarns, hooks and other craft materials.

Tapestry Crochet – Day Course

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I ran several 5 week tapestry crochet courses at the Riverhouse Barn Arts Centre in Walton-on-Thames where my students were able to make a full sized “Columbian bag” over the course of the weeks. They learnt all the basic techniques and were then encouraged to design their own bag or make one from a pattern. After many requests, I am now able to offer a Tapestry Crochet Day Course where you can learn some of the techniques used to create a Wayuu or “mochila” style bag. I have designed a cotton “mini-bag” project that incorporates many of these techniques so the student can practise and master this beautiful and very useful, crochet art-form.

Course Overview

  • Brief overview of bag construction & materials used.
  • How the bottom of the bag is made and basic principles of base design.
  • Getting started with your own bag.
  • Adding and changing colours – mastering the tapestry crochet stitch.
  • Making the sides of the bag – reading charts, designing your own patterns.
  • How to manage multiple skeins of yarn without tangling.
  • Making eyelets for the cord fastening.
  • Using crab stitch or reverse single crochet borders to reinforce and add stability and shape to the top and bottom of the bag.
  • Mastering two coloured crab stitch or reverse single crochet.
  • Making a simple cord.
  • How to make quick and easy tassels.
  • Tips for lining the bags.
  • Design options – examples of & ideas for projects using tapestry stitch.
three images showing the start of a crochet tapestry back, detail of a chevron design and tassels on a wayuu style bag

Schedule

Typically, the course is 5 hours long, with a 1 hour lunch break.
e.g. 10:00 – 12:30 Crochet, 12:30 – 13:30 Lunch, 13:30 – 16:00 Crochet

Class Size

I teach a maximum of 8 students in one class.

Class Format

All my classes come with detailed class notes and pattern. I provide samples and practical demonstrations of all techniques, helping and encouraging students with hands on assistance so that they can feel confident with their new found skills. Along with the class notes, the students should be able to continue & complete their mini project in the comfort of their own home, with relative ease. I am also happy to offer help by email, after the course, should any student have any questions.

Skill Level

Students must be competent with basic crochet techniques, particularly chaining & single crochet (UK double).

Three images showing crochet tutor and student, example of class notes and student crocheting a bag during class

Materials & Tools

I provide suitable cotton yarn for the project – I have a large selection of colours to choose from, so there should be something to suit all tastes.
The students will also need locking stitch markers and 2.5mm crochet hooks.
I can provide all of the above separately or as a kit, which can be incorporated into the overall cost of the course or as an extra payment on the day, per student.

Areas Covered

I am based in Surrey, and I’m willing to travel to London and most of the home counties. I have taught in Buckinghamshire, London, Berkshire, Middlesex & Sussex. I’ am always happy to consider locations further afield.

Fees & Availability

Please message me through my contact form for my fee structure and availability for this Tapestry Crochet Day Course.

Criss Cross Cotton Facecloth – Free Crochet Pattern & Video

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Here is my free crochet washcloth pattern, however, please don’t let the “wordyness” of the pattern or length of the video put you off! This really is a quick and easy crochet project which makes the perfect gift or colour coordinated accessorise for your home.

I’m not even sure how I managed to make a 45 minute video just about a flannel but hopefully you might find some of my explanations, demonstrations and tips useful.

I’ve included a menu here of where you can find the key points in the video in case you have neither the time or inclination to watch the whole thing.

Free Crochet Washcloth Pattern Details

A simple facecloth in single crochet – made special with a slip stitch surface design in a contrasting colour & finished with a textured, reverse single crochet border. Make it in soft cotton for the perfect, colour coordinated bathroom accessory. I have also made pairs of flannels, in opposite colours, with matching, handmade soap as gifts.

Pattern Format: 
Pattern is written in US crochet terminology and includes photos and mini tutorials for some of the techniques involved. A video is also available here.

Gauge: 
Gauge is 16 sts & 20 rows in single crochet.

Finished dimensions: 
If you crochet to gauge, the flannel is a generous 28cm x 28cm.

Materials:

  • Aran or Worsted Cotton Yarn in 2 colours (each cloth uses 106.0 meters / 115.9 yards in Colour A & 48.5 meters / 53.0 yards in Colour B).
  • Hook – 4mm
  • Tapestry or wool needle.
  • Stitch markers or scrap yarn.

Make to sell: 
You may make these wash-cloths to sell, either for charity or personal profit if you are a small scale crafter. All I ask is that you place the following text credit, either in your online listing or on a small piece of paper with the finished item: Design from www.mezzacraft.com

Other standard copyright laws apply.

Download Pattern

From Ravelry
From www.mezzacraft.com

Video Index

  • Starting chain 2:10
  • Single Crochet edging 6:30
  • Marking the horizontal lines 18:00
  • How to Slip Stitch Crochet horizontally on the fabric 20:45
  • Marking the vertical lines 26:10
  • How to Slip Stitch Crochet vertically on the fabric 27:45
  • Slip Stitch Crochet intersection 29:15
  • How to make the Crab Stitch / Reverse Single Crochet border 33:20
  • Finishing the horizontal & vertical Slip Stitch lines & sew in ends 43:50

I love to hear from you, so if you have made my free crochet washcloth pattern, please do share! I’m on Instagram as @mezzamay – mark your projects #mezzacraftcrochet !

I’m also happy to receive any feedback you may have about my patterns.

Thank you!

Mini Crochet Pumpkins – Free Pattern QUICK & EASY

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This little crochet pumpkin pattern goes back to 2017. I wrote it as a little side project for my crochet students. The original prototypes I made are still in my son’s toy box and every now and then when I see one kicking around, I think to myself “I must publish this pattern one day”. Yesterday, my youngest son’s 2 year old cousin came to play. He found a little pumpkin in Marco’s toy box and carried it around for most of his visit! So thank you Javier, you have inspired me!

I have two sizes here, but once you get the basic concept, you can easily make different sizes and experiment with different thicknesses of yarn and corresponding hook sizes – generally speaking, you need a smaller hook size than you’d normally use to get a tighter gauge so that your stuffing doesn’t fall out!

Pattern (US Crochet Terminology)

Materials:

Key:

  • beg – beginning
  • ch – chain
  • dc – double crochet
  • inc – increase (2sc in one stitch)
  • rem – remaining
  • sc – single crochet
  • st(s)– stitch(es)
  • sl st – slip stitch

Size:

Approx 5cm / 2″ x 5cm / 2″ including the stalk.

Crochet Instructions

Row 1 : Leaving a long tail (approx 12cm or 5 inches), ch13, working into the back ridges only, dc in 3rd ch from hook; dc into each remaining ch. (12 sts)

Row 2 : ch2, turn work, without skipping any sts at the beginning of the row, dc into each st to end. (12 sts)

Note – the ch2 at the beginning of this and all subsequent rows is not counted as a stitch, nor will you ever work into it.

Repeat row 2 until it’s square (fig.1) – you can check this by folding the corner with the tail up towards its opposite side (fig.2).

Now, count how many rows you have made. Times this by 1.5 (round up where necessary). This is how many more rows you need to crochet.

e.g. my piece was square at 5 rows. So 5 x 1.5 = 7.5. Round that up to 8. Add that to the rows I’ve already made = 13 rows in total.

Once you’ve made the required number of rows, fold the strip in half so the top and bottom are lined up.
Ch1 and join with sc, going through both loops of the front and back stitches simultaneously (fig. 3).

Once you’ve finished seaming, fasten off, leaving a nice long tail for gathering the top of the pumpkin (fig. 4). Turn inside out so the crochet seam in on the inside.

seaming two edges of crochet together with single crochet and leaving a long tail

Thread the tail onto a needle and sew a running stitch through the first and last stitches of the rows – here I’ve done approximately one stitch per row (fig. 5).

Now pull the thread tight, gathering the top of the pumpkin together as tightly as possible. Fasten securely and sew the tail inside the pumpkin (fig. 6).

sewing and gathering the bottom of the crocheted pumpkin

Thread the tail at the other end and sew a running stitch along the first and last stitches of the rows, as before.
Stuff the pumpkin with Kapok or your choice of toy stuffing (fig. 7).

Pull the thread tight and fasten off securely. Weave in ends. (fig. 8)

stuffing the crochet pumpkin with kapok and sewing up the end

Stalk

Row 1 : Leaving a long tail, ch7 (fig. 9), working into the back ridges, sc 2nd ch from hook; sc into each remaining ch.

Row 2 : ch1, turn work, sc into each st (fig. 10).

Join : ch1 fold work along longest side and then sl st the sides together. Because the slip stitch has a tighter gauge, it should cause your stalk to curve
(fig. 11) . Leave another long tail and fasten off.

Use these long tails to attach the stalk to the pumpkin by threading through the top gathered hole all the way through the middle to the bottom. Secure by sewing and knotting. You can even make a French knot with your needle to make the little nodule at the bottom of the pumpkin (fig. 12).

crocheting a stalk out of brown yarn and bottom of a small pumpkin with a french knot

Weave in all ends.

For a slightly larger sized pumpkin

Make as above but chain 17 to start with. For the stalk, ch8.

Three Little Bowls – Free Crochet Pattern

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Little bowl free crochet pattern. I wrote this pattern about 5 years ago when I was teaching a day class for the Surrey Women’s Institute. Since then, I have often used it for 2 hour “taster” classes. Don’t worry – it won’t take you 2 hours to make one of these little bowls! I have made the smaller one in less than 30 minutes. For beginners, it’s great for introducing students to the magic ring and also showing how you can create shaping by increasing and decreasing, or rather, more precisely in the case of this pattern, using a tighter stitch to achieve the same result as a decreasing round. For more experienced crocheters, it’s simply a quick, fun and satisfying little project that returns a utilitarian result. More recently I taught a private class to three ladies at a clients house. This time, I had experimented with multiple strands of yarn and different hook sizes. Each bowl uses the exact same pattern but with a different number of strands of Aran yarn and subsequent hook size. I was so delighted with the different results you can get, simply by adding a strand of yarn and going up a hook size that I thought I’d share the pattern with you all.

I hope you enjoy making these little bowls as much as we did!

For a printable pattern which includes a photo tutorial, or to download and save onto your device, please click here for the US & British version.

Psst… if you like this, you might also like my Mini Basket pattern, which is a spin-off of these little bowls…

Image of completed Crochet Bowls

PATTERN (US CROCHET TERMINOLOGY)

Materials

  • Aran Weight Yarn in 2 colours – A & B (you could also try this with 3 different colours) In total, all three bowls use approx. 84 m / 92 yds.
  • Hooks – 4.5mm, 6mm & 7mm
  • Tapestry or wool needle.
  • Locking stitch marker.

Key

  • beg – beginning
  • ch – chain
  • dc – double crochet
  • inc – increase (2sc in one stitch)
  • prev – previous
  • rem – remaining
  • rnd – round
  • sc – single crochet
  • st s) – stitch(es)
  • sl st – slip stitch

Size

  • Single strand dish : Approx 7cm across & 4.5cm high.
  • Double stranded dish : Approx 9cm across & 5.5cm high.
  • Triple stranded dish :Approx 12cm across &8cm high.

Crochet Instructions

Basic Little Dish Pattern (for detailed instructions, download the printable pattern)

Using the 4.5mm hook & one strand of yarn A, start with a magic ring. Alternatively, ch4 and join to form a ring.
Rnd 1:
ch3; 11 dc in ring; join in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 – 12 dc

Rnd 2:
Ch3, in same st as sl st, work 1dc; 2dc in each rem st; do not join – 24 dc.
Place marker in last stitch. From now on, the piece is worked in a spiral. For each of the subsequent rounds, place marker in the last stitch to help mark the end of the row. Remove the marker when you come to work the stitch and replace when you have made the last stitch.

Rnd 3:
1sc in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 of prev rnd; 1sc in next st; (inc in next st, 1sc in next 2 sts) 7 times; inc in last st – 32 sc

Rnd 4:
1sc in next st; (inc in next st, 1sc in next 3 sts) 7 times; inc in next st, 1sc in next 2 sts – 40 sc

Rnds 5-9:
sc in each st – 40 sc ⑤⑥⑦⑧⑨*

Rnd 10:
sl st in the back loop of each st.
Finish off and weave in all ends.

Double Stranded Little Dish Pattern
Make as the Basic Little Dish pattern, but use 2 strands of yarn B held together & a 6mm hook.

Triple Stranded Little Dish Pattern
Make as the Basic Little Dish pattern, but use 3 strands of yarn (2 of yarn B & 1 of yarn A) held together & a 7mm hook.

*Tip : cross off the rows as you make them.

Make to sell

You may make these bowls to sell, either for charity or personal profit if you are a small scale crafter. All I ask is that you place the following text credit, either in your online listing or on a small piece of paper with the finished item: Design from www.mezzacraft.com

Other standard copyright laws apply.

crochet three strands together

I love to see people’s projects and I encourage you to share the photos of your finished items or WIPS on Instagram using #mezzacraft

Disclosure : my posts can contain affiliated links from which I may receive a small referral fee should you happen to purchase anything.

Mini Basket – Free Crochet Pattern

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Mini basket, free crochet pattern. This handy little crocheted basket design with handles, is a spin off from my “Three Little Bowls” pattern. A quick and simple pattern, this small basket uses three strands of Aran or Worsted weight yarns, held together. You could use three strands of the same colour or three different colours, for a lovely variegated effect. I love using multiple colours because each stitch is unique, depending on how the strands of yarn fall in place. I have used 3 x 50g balls of Drops Alaska (100% wool) in the colours Mustard (58), Light Grey Mix (03) & Off White (02).

It’s an ideal container for knick-knacks, face towels, hair accessories or small toiletries. This little basket is also an ideal craft stall make – sell empty or fill with treats. As with most of my free patterns, you’re welcome to make these to sell, either online or at craft fairs – all I ask is that you include a small tag or piece of paper, acknowledging that the pattern came from www.mezzacraft.com.

The pattern works up quickly and is an ideal “stash buster”!

For printable patterns, or to download and save onto your device, please click here – you’ll also find a version with British crochet terminology.

Warning : this crochet pattern is addictive!

three images of crochet basket with aran yarn

Pattern (US CROCHET TERMINOLOGY)

Materials

Key

  • beg – beginning
  • ch – chain
  • dc – double crochet
  • inc – increase (2sc in one stitch)
  • rem – remaining
  • rnd – round sc – single crochet
  • t(s)– stitch(es)
  • sl st – slip stitch

Size

Finished basket is approximately 19cm / 7 ½ “ wide and 9cm / 3 ½ “ tall

Crochet Instructions

Work holding 3 strands of yarn together.

Start with a magic ring, alternatively, ch4 and join to form a ring.

Rnd 1:
ch3; 11 dc in ring; join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 – 12 dc

Rnd 2:
Ch3, in same st as sl st, work 1dc; 2dc in each rem st; make 1 dc in sl st join from prev rnd; join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch3 – 25 dc.

Rnd 3:

Ch3, in same st as sl st, work 1dc; (1dc in next st, 2dc in next) 12 times; 2dc in last st; DO NOT JOIN – 38 dc.

Place marker in last stitch to help mark the end of the row. From now on, the piece is worked in a spiral. For each of the subsequent rounds, remove the marker when you need to work into the last stitch and then replace it when you’ve worked the last stitch.

Rnd 4:
1sc in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 of previous rnd; 1sc in next st; (inc in next st, 1sc in next 2 sts) 12 times; 1sc in each of rem 2 sts – 50 sc

Rnd 5:
1sc in next st; (inc in next st, 1sc in next 3 sts) 12 times; 1sc in last st – 62 sc

Rnds 6-12:
Sc in each st – 62 sc ⑥⑦⑧⑨⑩⑪⑫*

Rnd 13:

1sc in each of next 6sts; ch8, sk7 sts, 1sc in each of next 24 sts; ch8, sk7 sts, 1sc in each of next 18 sts

Rnd 14:

1sc in each of next 6sts; make 8sc around ch, 1sc in each of next 24 sts; 8sc around ch, 1sc in each of next 18 sts

Rnd 15:
sl st in the back loop of each st.

Finish off and weave in all ends.

*Tip : cross off the rows as you make them.

Disclosure : my posts can contain affiliated links from which I may receive a small referral fee should you happen to purchase anything.

Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go For Half Motif

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Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go For Half Motifs
(US Crochet Terminology)
Here I show you how to make the joins for the half motifs. It’s only slightly different to the granny stitch join for the solid motifs, the two main differences being that the border/join is worked flat, i.e. turned after each row, and that the first and last cluster is made up of 4 stitches rather than 3. I have written out the instructions again, so if you’ve already followed the pattern for the full motif, I apologise for any repetition!
Materials 
Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sk – skip
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
Special stitches & techniques:
sl st join (in ch2 corner space) – insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook.
ch2 sl st join – ch1, insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
join between clusters – after you’ve made a 3dc cluster, insert hook from above into corresponding sp between clusters on adjacent motif, pull up a loop and pull it through the space and through the loop on the (i.e. sl st join).
shared ch2 sl st join – instead of working into a space, you’re working into a previous sl st join so you’ll need to locate the relevant stitch first, ch1, insert hook into sl st, from right to left. Pull up a loop through the slip stitch and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
Crochet Instructions (Abbreviated)

To demonstrate the technique, I’m using the four motifs previously made and turned them around 45 degrees. I’ve made 8 half motifs, ready to join.
half or triangle crochet motifs in position ready for join

E – Granny Stitch Border & Join for Half Motif

The border is worked in rows, along the two shortest sides of the triangle. Here it’s joined along one side of an adjacent motif and into a shared corner.
Round 1: With WRONG SIDE FACING Join yarn into first dc st of your “Half Solid Granny Square” motif; ch3 (counts as 1dc), 3dc in same st [fig1]; *(sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 3 times [fig2]; sk3dc*; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made* [fig3]; repeat from * to * once more; in last remaining st, i.e. a ch3, in 3rd ch – 4dc [fig3]
You should have: 4 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner, 1 x 4dc cluster at start & finish.
crochet instructions for granny stitch join with half motif
Round 2: ch3, TURN WORK [fig5]; make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, 3dc in same st [fig6]; continue round 2 as per pattern, remembering to join between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the next corner [fig7]; 3dc in ch2 sp, make a shared ch2 sl st join into adjacent motifs, 3dc in corner sp [fig8]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 3 times; sk3dc, last remaining st is a ch3 [fig9], in 3rd ch – 4dc; fasten off [fig10].
round two of half motif granny stitch join

F – Granny Stitch Border & Join for Half Motif

Here the border is joined along both sides including a shared corner join.
Round 1: As E
Round 2: ch3, TURN WORK [fig11]; make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, 3dc in same st [fig12]; continue round 2 as per pattern, remembering to join between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the next corner [fig13]; 3dc in ch2 sp, make a shared ch2 sl st join into adjacent motifs, 3dc in corner sp [fig14]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the last remaining st [fig15]– this is a ch3, in 3rd ch – 3dc, make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, ch3, sl st in same st as 3dc just made; fasten off [fig16].
granny stitch crochet join for triangle motifJoin the remaining 6 half motifs in the same way as F & G. Don’t worry if the edges of your granny stitch border join & half motifs don’t look particularly neat, this will be redressed when we crochet the final borders.solid squares and triangle crochet motifs joined
If you’d like to see more of my crochet work and current knitting/crochet projects I’m currently working on, please do follow me on instagram. I’m mezzamay. And if you happen to make any of my patterns, don’t forget to tag your posts #mezzacraft .

Sewing In Ends Of Crochet Projects

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I often get asked how I weave in my ends and what is the best way to sew in ends of crocheted projects so that they don’t come undone or look messy. I’ve put together this post to show you how I’m weaving in the ends of a project. The project features solid granny motifs and the traditional granny stitch. It also deals in particular with very short ends which can be difficult to handle. It’s not a definitive guide – I’m just sharing with you how I do it.

Projects using multiple motifs are a great favourite of mine. I know other crocheters also love making motifs but are put off by all the ends that need sewing in. This is a time consuming task which is made all the more daunting when you are not really sure how to do it.

How do you make sure it’s secure?

In my experience, the key to a securely hidden end is to sew in one direction, then back on itself in the opposite direction, whilst making sure a stitch is caught or sewn over so that you’re not just undoing the stitch you’ve just made. I use a standard wool needle for knitters. It has a large eye and relatively blunt tip. Specifically, I use Pony Gold Eye Sewing Needles.

To start with, I always make the first step of securing the ends while crocheting. I.e. when I actually join the new yarn colour to the project. I do this by crocheting over the tail end for 3 or 4 stitches. Initially this doesn’t seem a very secure start. Worry not, as the final sewn step keeps everything in place. This works well with solid stitch patterns and clusters but is often not possible when you’re making a lacy or very open pattern. In these instances, you’ll need to employ other strategies.

If you’ve managed to catch the end in during crocheting, you only need to sew it back on itself again. Remember to catch in or skip over the first strand so that you’re not undoing the stitch.

How do you deal with very short ends?

When you have a short tail to sew in, start with the needle in the fabric/stitches where you want to sew and then thread the needle. I tend to use my thumb nail to push the yarn through the eye.

In most cases, sewing in one direction and then the other is enough to ensure the work doesn’t come undone. Don’t forget to skip a strand of yarn when you change direction (see second image above). However, if you’re making something for a baby, or a gift or a paid commission, you may want to add an extra step. I.e. change direction and sew back again before trimming the yarn. If you’ve got a very short tail, carefully pull the needle through, without un-threading it. Then use the eye of the needle to sew back on itself. This technique is not advisable if your needle is sharp!

How do you ensure it looks neat?

I always try to sew the ends into a congested area of stitches, such as a corner or cluster. I find this offers the most secure spot and the tail end finds it difficult to wriggle.

Sometimes, such as here, where the corners of the four motifs join, there is no congested area to conceal a tail end. Instead I make a running stitch into the post of an adjacent stitch – here it’s a double crochet, until I came to a denser area suitable for sewing into.

For both methods, I find it best to work from the back of the fabric. I check the front occasionally to make sure I haven’t left any visible stitches that might blemish my work on the right side. It is also important to ensure your sewing matches the gauge of your crochet pattern. After each sewn stitch, I gently pull the fabric to make sure my weaving in isn’t creating any pulls or puckering.

Lastly, I like to use a small pair of sewing scissors to CAREFULLY snip off the remaining tail end. Sadly, I have had disasters in the past. Once, coming to the last few threads, I managed to cut a hole in a project when I was rushing and excited to finish!

Project details:
  • This is a large wrap made using a modified version of the Blue Buoy Blanket pattern.
  • The pattern for the three row solid granny square can be found here.
  • The traditional granny stitch border an join can be found here.
  • KnitPro Zing Hook – size 3.25mm.
  • Yarn is sock weight/fingering yarn from Posh Yarn …25 different hand dyed shades in total!

And here’s a video.