Tutorial
Mini Crochet Pumpkins – Free Pattern QUICK & EASY
This little crochet pumpkin pattern goes back to 2017. I wrote it as a little side project for my crochet students. The original prototypes I made are still in my son’s toy box and every now and then when I see one kicking around, I think to myself “I must publish this pattern one day”. Yesterday, my youngest son’s 2 year old cousin came to play. He found a little pumpkin in Marco’s toy box and carried it around for most of his visit! So thank you Javier, you have inspired me!
I have two sizes here, but once you get the basic concept, you can easily make different sizes and experiment with different thicknesses of yarn and corresponding hook sizes – generally speaking, you need a smaller hook size than you’d normally use to get a tighter gauge so that your stuffing doesn’t fall out!
Pattern (US Crochet Terminology)
Materials:
- DK Yarn ( I have used Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK) – colours are Peach Orange (455) & Coffee Bean (411)
- 2.5mm Hook (my favourite hooks are Clover Amour)
- Small amount of toy stuffing (I like to use a natural product such as Kapok but you could also use cotton wool for such a small project).
- Tapestry or wool needle.
Key:
- beg – beginning
- ch – chain
- dc – double crochet
- inc – increase (2sc in one stitch)
- rem – remaining
- sc – single crochet
- st(s)– stitch(es)
- sl st – slip stitch
Size:
Approx 5cm / 2″ x 5cm / 2″ including the stalk.
Crochet Instructions
Row 1 : Leaving a long tail (approx 12cm or 5 inches), ch13, working into the back ridges only, dc in 3rd ch from hook; dc into each remaining ch. (12 sts)
Row 2 : ch2, turn work, without skipping any sts at the beginning of the row, dc into each st to end. (12 sts)
Note – the ch2 at the beginning of this and all subsequent rows is not counted as a stitch, nor will you ever work into it.
Repeat row 2 until it’s square (fig.1) – you can check this by folding the corner with the tail up towards its opposite side (fig.2).
Now, count how many rows you have made. Times this by 1.5 (round up where necessary). This is how many more rows you need to crochet.
e.g. my piece was square at 5 rows. So 5 x 1.5 = 7.5. Round that up to 8. Add that to the rows I’ve already made = 13 rows in total.
Once you’ve made the required number of rows, fold the strip in half so the top and bottom are lined up.
Ch1 and join with sc, going through both loops of the front and back stitches simultaneously (fig. 3).
Once you’ve finished seaming, fasten off, leaving a nice long tail for gathering the top of the pumpkin (fig. 4). Turn inside out so the crochet seam in on the inside.
Thread the tail onto a needle and sew a running stitch through the first and last stitches of the rows – here I’ve done approximately one stitch per row (fig. 5).
Now pull the thread tight, gathering the top of the pumpkin together as tightly as possible. Fasten securely and sew the tail inside the pumpkin (fig. 6).
Thread the tail at the other end and sew a running stitch along the first and last stitches of the rows, as before.
Stuff the pumpkin with Kapok or your choice of toy stuffing (fig. 7).
Pull the thread tight and fasten off securely. Weave in ends. (fig. 8)
Stalk
Row 1 : Leaving a long tail, ch7 (fig. 9), working into the back ridges, sc 2nd ch from hook; sc into each remaining ch.
Row 2 : ch1, turn work, sc into each st (fig. 10).
Join : ch1 fold work along longest side and then sl st the sides together. Because the slip stitch has a tighter gauge, it should cause your stalk to curve
(fig. 11) . Leave another long tail and fasten off.
Use these long tails to attach the stalk to the pumpkin by threading through the top gathered hole all the way through the middle to the bottom. Secure by sewing and knotting. You can even make a French knot with your needle to make the little nodule at the bottom of the pumpkin (fig. 12).
Weave in all ends.
For a slightly larger sized pumpkin
Make as above but chain 17 to start with. For the stalk, ch8.
Sewing In Ends Of Crochet Projects
I often get asked how I weave in my ends and what is the best way to sew in ends of crocheted projects so that they don’t come undone or look messy. I’ve put together this post to show you how I’m weaving in the ends of a project. The project features solid granny motifs and the traditional granny stitch. It also deals in particular with very short ends which can be difficult to handle. It’s not a definitive guide – I’m just sharing with you how I do it.
Projects using multiple motifs are a great favourite of mine. I know other crocheters also love making motifs but are put off by all the ends that need sewing in. This is a time consuming task which is made all the more daunting when you are not really sure how to do it.
How do you make sure it’s secure?
In my experience, the key to a securely hidden end is to sew in one direction, then back on itself in the opposite direction, whilst making sure a stitch is caught or sewn over so that you’re not just undoing the stitch you’ve just made. I use a standard wool needle for knitters. It has a large eye and relatively blunt tip. Specifically, I use Pony Gold Eye Sewing Needles.
To start with, I always make the first step of securing the ends while crocheting. I.e. when I actually join the new yarn colour to the project. I do this by crocheting over the tail end for 3 or 4 stitches. Initially this doesn’t seem a very secure start. Worry not, as the final sewn step keeps everything in place. This works well with solid stitch patterns and clusters but is often not possible when you’re making a lacy or very open pattern. In these instances, you’ll need to employ other strategies.
If you’ve managed to catch the end in during crocheting, you only need to sew it back on itself again. Remember to catch in or skip over the first strand so that you’re not undoing the stitch.
How do you deal with very short ends?
When you have a short tail to sew in, start with the needle in the fabric/stitches where you want to sew and then thread the needle. I tend to use my thumb nail to push the yarn through the eye.
In most cases, sewing in one direction and then the other is enough to ensure the work doesn’t come undone. Don’t forget to skip a strand of yarn when you change direction (see second image above). However, if you’re making something for a baby, or a gift or a paid commission, you may want to add an extra step. I.e. change direction and sew back again before trimming the yarn. If you’ve got a very short tail, carefully pull the needle through, without un-threading it. Then use the eye of the needle to sew back on itself. This technique is not advisable if your needle is sharp!
How do you ensure it looks neat?
I always try to sew the ends into a congested area of stitches, such as a corner or cluster. I find this offers the most secure spot and the tail end finds it difficult to wriggle.
Sometimes, such as here, where the corners of the four motifs join, there is no congested area to conceal a tail end. Instead I make a running stitch into the post of an adjacent stitch – here it’s a double crochet, until I came to a denser area suitable for sewing into.
For both methods, I find it best to work from the back of the fabric. I check the front occasionally to make sure I haven’t left any visible stitches that might blemish my work on the right side. It is also important to ensure your sewing matches the gauge of your crochet pattern. After each sewn stitch, I gently pull the fabric to make sure my weaving in isn’t creating any pulls or puckering.
Lastly, I like to use a small pair of sewing scissors to CAREFULLY snip off the remaining tail end. Sadly, I have had disasters in the past. Once, coming to the last few threads, I managed to cut a hole in a project when I was rushing and excited to finish!
Project details:
- This is a large wrap made using a modified version of the Blue Buoy Blanket pattern.
- The pattern for the three row solid granny square can be found here.
- The traditional granny stitch border an join can be found here.
- KnitPro Zing Hook – size 3.25mm.
- Yarn is sock weight/fingering yarn from Posh Yarn …25 different hand dyed shades in total!
And here’s a video.
Half Motif – Three Round Granny Square – Free Crochet Pattern
Three Round Solid Granny Square Half Motif – Crochet Pattern
(US Crochet Terminology)
This half square crochet pattern features in my Blue Buoy blanket pattern and it’s used to fill the edges and make the corners of the blanket. I really love how turning a simple square motif through 90 degrees gives a whole new look!
You can find instructions for the full square by clicking here.
Materials
3.5mm/E/4 hook
DK 100% Cotton (Paintbox)
Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
Crochet Instructions (Abbreviated)
This motif is worked flat, i.e. turning each row.
ch5, join with sl st in first chain to form a ring.
Row 1 : ch 3 (counts as 1dc in this and all subsequent rounds); 4dc in ring; ch2; 5dc in ring. (2x 5dc sts & 1x ch2 sp)
Row 2 : ch3, TURN WORK; 2dc in first st; 1dc in each of rem 4sts; in ch2 corner sp – 2dc, ch2, 2dc – corner made; 1dc in each of next 4sts; 3dc in last st. (2x 9dc sts & 1x ch2 sps)
Row 3 : ch3, TURN WORK; 2dc in first st; 1dc in each of rem 8sts; in ch2 corner sp – 2dc, ch2, 2dc – corner made; 1dc in each of next 8sts; 3dc in last st. Fasten off. (2x 13dc sts & 1x ch2 sps)
In upcoming posts I’ll be showing you how to make the granny stitch joins and also how to crochet the border.
Disclosure : I use affiliate links for my favourite yarns and other accessories!
Star Flower Crochet Motif – Basic Join
I’ve had a lot of interest in my Star Flower motif patterns, both the full and half motifs. I’m really sorry it’s taken me a while to get this post up, but at last here are the instructions showing you how to do the basic “join as you go” crochet technique for for the star flower motifs.
Making the video, charts and written instructions is pretty time consuming and always takes me longer than I think! Moreover, I’m on a real learning curve with the video editing so although I realise they are not brilliant as they are, I hope to improve with each new video!
Anyway, here you go…
I have also written up some instructions and a chart.
Joining the Main Star Flower Motif
(US crochet terminology)
Materials
3.5mm/E/4 hook
DK 100% Cotton (Paintbox)
Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
prev – previous
rnd – round
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
sp(s) – space(s)
tr – treble crochet
The Star Flower motif is joined to the other motifs in the final round. The following instructions only cover how to join in the final round. For the full, single motif instructions, please click here.
For the purpose of these instructions, I have made the four motifs out of a different yarn which is thinner and requires a smaller hook size than my original motif. Here I am using Paintbox Yarn DK Cotton & a 3.5mm hook (by Tulip Etimo Rose, one of my favourite brands of crochet hook – I’d highly recommend them.)
Even if you do not like to use charts, please do take a look at the chart I have drawn, along with the written instructions and/or video, as it shows the layout and sequence of joining the motifs in this particular demonstration.
Crochet Instructions
Note : the ch6 “loops” at each corner of the motif are shared by adjoining motifs, so where there is no join, make the ch6 loop as usual but when you come to a ch6 loop of an adjacent motif, you join without making a further ch6 loop.
Motifs are joined at the corners and in the middle of the ch8 sections.
You may also want to take a look at the list of “join as you go” crochet tips I’ve compiled at the end of the post.
Motif 1…Make one complete motif.
Motif 2…Make a second motif, stopping before you start the final round. You’ll be joining the second motif to the left hand side of the first motif. Start off as follows: ch1, sc in sp, ch3 picot; (ch8; at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch6, sc in next ch; ch8; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot) 2 times; ch8…
Corner join…at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, now, ensuring motif #1 is facing the right side up, join the current motif to any ch6 loop from motif #1 as follows: remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch6 space, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch6 loop; sc into the next ch in the tip of the current motif – corner join made!
ch8 section join…Straight away, make a ch8 join, as follows: ch4, remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch8 space, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch8 space; ch4 – ch8 section join made! Continue making the motif : in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; make another ch8 section join…
Next, make another corner join: at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the next ch6 space of adjacent motif, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch6 loop; sc into the next ch in the tip of the current motif – second corner join made! Now finish off the motif: ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.
Motif 3…This third motif is joined to the top of the first motif. Again, make the third motif, stopping before you get to the final round. You may wish to place markers in the ch6 loops and ch8 sections to mark where you will join this current motif – it’s easy to get disorientated. Start off as follows: ch1, sc in sp, ch3 picot; (ch8; at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch6, sc in next ch; ch8; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot) 2 times; ch8…
Shared corner join…this join takes place in the top ch6 loop where motif 1 & 2 are already joined. At the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, now, ensuring the work is facing the right side up, join the current motif to the shared ch6 loop of motifs 1& 2 as follows: remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch6 space, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch6 loop; sc into the next ch in the tip of the current motif – shared corner join made!
Now, continue with a ch8 section join, a ch3 picot in the ch2 space of the short petal and then another ch8 section join; make the last corner join; ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.
Motif 4…This last motif is joined along 2 sides and 3 corners. This time, make the fourth motif, but only up to the second corner; make a corner join in the remaining top ch6 loop of motif 2; proceed with a ch8 section join; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; make another ch8 section join; make a shared corner join (the central point where motifs 1, 2 & 3 join); make a ch8 section join to motif 3; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; make another ch8 section join; make the final corner join. ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.
Sew in all ends and block into shape.
Video:
“Join As You Go” crochet tips
If you are new to the “join as you go” technique, I would recommend implementing the following tips:
1. Work at a table so that you can lay the pieces flat. If you’re inexperienced, this technique isn’t well suited for lap work on the sofa!
2. Place a stitch marker in the centre section of your first motif – this helps you to keep orientated.
3. Before you join the next motif, decide where the joining points are going to be on the existing piece of work. Place stitch markers at the join points.
4. If you have 2 different coloured stitch markers, even better! Use one colour to mark corners and another colour for the ch8 section join. This is is particularly useful to help you keep track of where you are and what needs doing next.
5. Make as much of the final round as possible before joining – for example, if you’re joining along one side with two corners, make round four up the point where you need to join, i.e. the third corner. If you start off joining at the first two corners, you have to complete the remainder of the motif while it’s attached to the main body of the work, this can become quite cumbersome when the work becomes larger with more motifs.
6. Make sure, each time you join a new motif, that the work is facing the right way up!
7. Regularly lay the work out flat on the table and check all is well.
8. Don’t worry if it looks a bit scruffy. Once you’ve sewn in the ends and blocked, it will look much more presentable!
Rainbow Heirloom Little Square Crochet Motif – Free Pattern
I bought two bundles of Solo Light Minis by Rainbow Heirloom, on a whim when I saw them on Ysolda Teague’s website at the end of 2017. Although I love bright and cheerful colours, I tend to shy away from them, especially if I have to work out colour combinations on my own. It’s something I don’t feel confident doing, so when I saw these gorgeous mini skeins, with colour combinations already put together, I just couldn’t resist!
Straight away, I knew I’d like to make a scarf or wrap, made with lots of little motifs. The result is this little crochet square. I had a few people ask about the pattern on my Instagram feed, so here it is! There is also a free video tutorial for making this little motif. Please scroll down to the end of the post.
Little Rainbow Square Crochet Motif – Pattern
(US Crochet Terminology)
Materials
2.5mm/C/2 hook (I love Clover Amour Hooks)
Sock / Fingering Weight Single Ply 100% Superwash Merino Wool (or comparable)
Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
cl – cluster
dc – double crochet
esc – extended single crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sk – skip
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
Special Stitches
esc (extended single crochet) – insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop, chain one, yarn over, draw off both loops on hook (to see how to make an esc, see video at 2:07).
ch3 picot – ch3, slip stitch into the single crochet previously made as follows – hold the ch3 to the back, out of the way, insert hook through both loops of the stitch from back to front, draw up a loop through the single crochet and the loop on the hook, gently pull tight to make a neat picot (to see how to make an ch3 picot, see video at 11:38).
ch4 picot – ch4, slip stitch, from front to back into the back ridge of the first chain made which is easy to find as it looks like a hole at the top of the cluster (to see how to make an ch4 picot, see video at 11:00).
6dc cl (6 double crochet cluster) – yarn over, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and draw though 2 loops) 6 times, yarn over and draw off all 7 loops on hook (to see how to make an 6dc cl, see video at 10:00).
Crochet Instructions
Note:
This pattern incorporates two slightly different picot stitches – both are described in the special stitch section and in the pattern.
With colour A, ch4 and join to form a ring.
Row 1 : ch1, into the ring, 8esc, finish round, skip 1st esc & sew round closed with an invisible join in 2nd esc. (8 sts)
Note – if this way doesn’t look neat, you can try it this way:
Row 1 : ch1, into the ring, 7esc, finish round, make last “stitch” by sewing the round closed with an invisible join in 1st esc. (8 sts)
Row 2 : join colour B, ch3, dc in same st; 2dc in each of the next 7 sts ;join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch3. (16 sts)
Row 3 : ch1, sc in same st, make a ch3 picot as follows – ch3 and sl st, inserting hook from the back to the front of the sc just made); ch4, sk1dc; in next dc make a 6dc cluster stitch as follows – (yo, insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yo and draw though 2 loops) 6 times, yo and draw off all 7 loops on hook ; make a ch4 picot as follows – ch4, sl st, from front to back, into the back ridge of the 1st ch (this presents itself as the hole at the top of the cluster); (ch4, sk1dc; sc in next st and make a ch3 picot; ch4, sk1dc; in next dc make a 6dc bobble, make a ch4 picot in the top of the bobble st just made) 3 times; ch3 & join with sl st into 1st sc of rnd.
Supporting video tutorial here:
Crochet chart:
I’m currently working on a post and video which goes over how to join the motifs.
Coin Purse With Button – A Free Crochet Pattern
When I’m teaching my 5 week courses, I often get students that finish their projects before others so I have developed a number of small, “mini-projects” to help keep
them busy in class! This little purse is one of them!
This pattern is for a simple crocheted purse made in one piece– starting from the bottom up, in a spiral. The flap is then worked flat without breaking off the yarn and includes a button loop.
Pattern Format:
Pattern is written in US crochet terminology and includes 6 pages with photos and mini tutorials for some of the techniques involved and can be downloaded as a pdf.
Gauge:
Specific gauge is not required, however you are looking to achieve a relatively dense and firm fabric to attain the correct structure for the purse.
Finished dimensions:
Aran – approx. 4”/10cm tall & 4.5”/11cm wide
Chunky – approx. 5”/7.5cm tall & 6”/15cm wide
Difficulty:
Easy – magic ring (instructions given), single crochet, working in the round, increasing and decreasing (instructions given), working flat in double crochet, basic sewing skills (attaching a button), keeping track of rounds with stitch marker.
Make to sell:
You may make these purses to sell, either for charity or personal profit if you are a small scale crafter. All I ask is that you place the following text credit, either in your online listing or on a small piece of paper with the finished item: Design from www.mezzacraft.com
Other standard copyright laws apply.
Get pattern now!
Download from Ravelry
I love to see people’s projects and I encourage you to share the photos of your finished items or WIPS on Instagram using #littlepurse & #mezzacraft
Simple Daisy Flower Pattern – Free
Here is a simple daisy motif for you to crochet. Follow the step by step slide show below or download the pdf here.
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