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crochet motif

Sewing In Ends Of Crochet Projects

January 12, 2019 //  by mezza//  Leave a Comment

I often get asked how I weave in my ends and what is the best way to sew in ends of crocheted projects so that they don’t come undone or look messy. I’ve put together this post to show you how I’m weaving in the ends of a project. The project features solid granny motifs and the traditional granny stitch. It also deals in particular with very short ends which can be difficult to handle. It’s not a definitive guide – I’m just sharing with you how I do it.

Projects using multiple motifs are a great favourite of mine. I know other crocheters also love making motifs but are put off by all the ends that need sewing in. This is a time consuming task which is made all the more daunting when you are not really sure how to do it.

How do you make sure it’s secure?

In my experience, the key to a securely hidden end is to sew in one direction, then back on itself in the opposite direction, whilst making sure a stitch is caught or sewn over so that you’re not just undoing the stitch you’ve just made. I use a standard wool needle for knitters. It has a large eye and relatively blunt tip. Specifically, I use Pony Gold Eye Sewing Needles.

To start with, I always make the first step of securing the ends while crocheting. I.e. when I actually join the new yarn colour to the project. I do this by crocheting over the tail end for 3 or 4 stitches. Initially this doesn’t seem a very secure start. Worry not, as the final sewn step keeps everything in place. This works well with solid stitch patterns and clusters but is often not possible when you’re making a lacy or very open pattern. In these instances, you’ll need to employ other strategies.

If you’ve managed to catch the end in during crocheting, you only need to sew it back on itself again. Remember to catch in or skip over the first strand so that you’re not undoing the stitch.

How do you deal with very short ends?

When you have a short tail to sew in, start with the needle in the fabric/stitches where you want to sew and then thread the needle. I tend to use my thumb nail to push the yarn through the eye.

In most cases, sewing in one direction and then the other is enough to ensure the work doesn’t come undone. Don’t forget to skip a strand of yarn when you change direction (see second image above). However, if you’re making something for a baby, or a gift or a paid commission, you may want to add an extra step. I.e. change direction and sew back again before trimming the yarn. If you’ve got a very short tail, carefully pull the needle through, without un-threading it. Then use the eye of the needle to sew back on itself. This technique is not advisable if your needle is sharp!

How do you ensure it looks neat?

I always try to sew the ends into a congested area of stitches, such as a corner or cluster. I find this offers the most secure spot and the tail end finds it difficult to wriggle.

Sometimes, such as here, where the corners of the four motifs join, there is no congested area to conceal a tail end. Instead I make a running stitch into the post of an adjacent stitch – here it’s a double crochet, until I came to a denser area suitable for sewing into.

For both methods, I find it best to work from the back of the fabric. I check the front occasionally to make sure I haven’t left any visible stitches that might blemish my work on the right side. It is also important to ensure your sewing matches the gauge of your crochet pattern. After each sewn stitch, I gently pull the fabric to make sure my weaving in isn’t creating any pulls or puckering.

Lastly, I like to use a small pair of sewing scissors to CAREFULLY snip off the remaining tail end. Sadly, I have had disasters in the past. Once, coming to the last few threads, I managed to cut a hole in a project when I was rushing and excited to finish!

Project details:
  • This is a large wrap made using a modified version of the Blue Buoy Blanket pattern.
  • The pattern for the three row solid granny square can be found here.
  • The traditional granny stitch border an join can be found here.
  • KnitPro Zing Hook – size 3.25mm.
  • Yarn is sock weight/fingering yarn from Posh Yarn …25 different hand dyed shades in total!

And here’s a video.

Category: Crochet, Crochet Tips, Crochet Tutor, Student Resource, Tips and Tutorials, TutorialTag: blanket, crochet, crochet classes walton, crochet hersham, crochet motif, finishing, granny square, sewing in ends, tips, weaving in ends

Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join for Three Round Solid Squares

December 12, 2018 //  by mezza//  2 Comments

Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go For Full Motifs
(US Crochet Terminology)
For the “Three Round Solid Granny Square”
As per my Blue Buoy Blanket, here I’m using the classic 3 double crochet granny cluster stitch as a two row border and joining with the last round to adjacent squares with slip stitches. Although this can be seen as a no-sew option, there will still be quite a few ends to weave in. To make this less of a chore, I tend to try and discipline myself to sew in ends after certain milestones. E.g. after I’ve joined 10 motifs, I’ll spend time sewing in the ends before I allow myself to do any more of the fun bits, i.e. crocheting!
To demonstrate the granny stitch border and joining technique, I am making a cushion cover which is made up of 4 square motifs and 8 half/triangle motifs. Once you have mastered the basic principle, it’s pretty easy to scale this up to larger items such as blankets or wraps.
At this point, I would like to say that I have not had this pattern tested or tech edited. Please do let me know if you have any issues or need any help. This crochet tutorial just covers joining the full, square motifs. Thank you!
Materials 
Yarn : DK Cotton Yarn (Paintbox)
Hook : 3.5mm / E / 4
Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sk – skip
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
Special stitches & techniques:
sl st join (in ch2 corner space) – insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook.
ch2 sl st join – ch1, insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
join between clusters – after you’ve made a 3dc cluster, insert hook from above into corresponding sp between clusters on adjacent motif, pull up a loop and pull it through the space and through the loop on the (i.e. sl st join).
shared ch2 sl st join – instead of working into a space, you’re working into a previous sl st join so you’ll need to locate the relevant stitch first, ch1, insert hook into sl st, from right to left. Pull up a loop through the slip stitch and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
A note about joins:
A join shouldn’t be too loose so that the work looks sloppy, but neither should it be pulled too tightly as this will affect the flexibility and make the work stiff. Importantly, you don’t want the slip stitch too tight as you may need to work back into it for a shared join.
Crochet Instructions (Abbreviated)
A – Granny Stitch Border (Without Join)
Round 1: Join yarn into any ch2 corner of your “Solid Granny Square” motif; ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; *sk3dc, 3dc in next st; (sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 2 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made*;  repeat from * to * 3 times; sk3dc, 3dc in next st; (sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 2 times; working back into the first corner sp – 2dc, join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4. (5 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner)
Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; *(sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made*; repeat from * to * 3 times; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters; working back into the first corner sp – 2dc, join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off. [fig1]  (6 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner)
granny stitch crochet border & join layout
B – Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join
The motif is joined along one side and to two corners of motif A.
Round 1: As A.granny stitch join step by step instructions
Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc [fig2], make a ch2 sl st join into motif A, as follows: ch1, insert hook from above into ch2 sp of the bottom left hand corner of motif A [fig3], pull up a loop and pull it through ch2 corner sp and through loop on hook (sl st join) [fig4], ch1; 3dc in corner sp [fig5]; continue round 2, joining between clusters to motif A as follows: * insert hook from above into adjacent sp between clusters on motif A [fig6], pull up a loop and pull it through sp and loop on hook (sl st join) [fig7]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters [fig8]; *; repeat from * to * 4 times; sl st join between adjacent clusters on motif A [fig9]; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top left hand corner of motif A; 3dc in corner sp [fig10]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; finish off first corner – 2dc into corner sp; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off [fig11].
granny stitch crochet border instructions
C – Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join
The motif is joined along one side and to two corners of motif A, including a shared corner join with motif B.
Round 1: As A.
Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times [fig12]; in ch2 corner sp– 3dc, make a shared ch2 sl st join into join of A & B, as follows: ch1, insert hook, from right to left, through sl st join [fig13], pull up a loop and pull it through the sl st join and the loop on hook, ch1 [fig14]; 3dc in corner sp [fig15]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to motif A; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top right hand corner of motif A [fig16]; 3dc in corner sp; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; finish off first corner – 2dc into corner sp; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off [fig17].
granny stitch join tutorial
D – Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join
The motif is joined along two sides and at three corner points, including a shared corner join with motif A,B & C.
Round 1: As A.
Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) [fig18]; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top left corner of motif B; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to motif B [fig19]; in ch2 corner sp– 3dc [fig20], make a shared ch2 sl st join into join of A, B & C, 3dc [fig21]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to motif C; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top left corner of motif C [fig22]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; finish off first corner – 2dc into corner sp; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off. [fig23]
traditional granny stitch border and join for square motifs
For instructions of how to join the half motifs, please see this post.
Ideas & Suggestions

There are lots of ways you could utilise and modify this simple border and join:

  1. Luxurious Wrap – Make use of your hand-dyed sock yarn scraps to crochet small, solid squares and then use another luxury 4ply & the Granny Stitch Border to join it all together.
  2. More Granny – love the granny stitch? It’s easy enough to increase the number of rows from 2 to 3 or 4… maybe more! This would give a different look which I’d love to see.
  3. Try it in craft cotton or string to make a market bag or re-usable shopping bag.
  4. How would it look in variegated yarn?
  5. Or how about a funky top? Make two simple rectangles, slightly wider than your bust…seam shoulders and sides for a colourful addition to your wardrobe!

As always, I love seeing what you’ve made or if you’d like to share your ideas, please do get in touch or tag your projects #mezzacraft if you use Instagram.

 

Category: Crochet, Crochet Blanket, Free, Join As You Go, Motif, Pattern, TutorialTag: beginners crochet, blanket, crochet, crochet motif, crochet pattern, free crochet pattern, motif, pattern, square, Walton-on-Thames

Half Motif – Three Round Granny Square – Free Crochet Pattern

November 13, 2018 //  by mezza//  3 Comments

half solid granny square triangle crochet motif turquoiseThree Round Solid Granny Square Half Motif –  Crochet Pattern
(US Crochet Terminology)

This half square crochet pattern features in my Blue Buoy blanket pattern and it’s used to fill the edges and make the corners of the blanket.  I really love how turning a simple square motif through 90 degrees gives a whole new look!

You can find instructions for the full square by clicking here.

Materials
3.5mm/E/4 hook
DK 100% Cotton (Paintbox)

Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch

Crochet Instructions (Abbreviated)

This motif is worked flat, i.e. turning each row.

ch5, join with sl st in first chain to form a ring.

Row 1 : ch 3 (counts as 1dc in this and all subsequent rounds); 4dc in ring; ch2; 5dc in ring. (2x 5dc sts & 1x ch2 sp)

Row 2 : ch3, TURN WORK; 2dc in first st; 1dc in each of rem 4sts; in ch2 corner sp – 2dc, ch2, 2dc – corner made;  1dc in each of next 4sts; 3dc in last st. (2x 9dc sts & 1x ch2 sps)

Row 3 : ch3, TURN WORK; 2dc in first st; 1dc in each of rem 8sts; in ch2 corner sp – 2dc, ch2, 2dc – corner made;  1dc in each of next 8sts; 3dc in last st. Fasten off. (2x 13dc sts & 1x ch2 sps)

 

 

In upcoming posts I’ll be showing you how to make the granny stitch joins and also how to crochet the border.

Disclosure : I use affiliate links for my favourite yarns and other accessories!

 

 

Category: Crochet, Crochet Blanket, Free, Free Crochet Pattern, Motif, Pattern, TutorialTag: beginners crochet, blanket, crochet blanket pattern, crochet motif, crochet pattern, Easy, free, free crochet pattern, instructions, motif, pattern, square

Three Round Solid Granny Square – Free Crochet Pattern

November 4, 2018 //  by mezza//  5 Comments

Three Round Solid Granny Square Full Motif –  Crochet Pattern
(US Crochet Terminology)

Three Row Solid Granny Square Blanket Motif - Free Crochet Pattern

This simple crochet square is quick and easy to make and is a great foundation for many projects, including my Blue Buoy blanket, named after one of my favourite places in my home town, Porthleven.

It’s a great way to use up scraps of yarn and it’s pretty easy to adjust the size, making the square bigger by adding extra rounds.
I’ve used one of my favourite yarns for baby blankets – Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK which comes in an amazing array of colours. My squares, using a 3.5mm hook come out at about 8cm / 3 inches across. Each square uses 4g or 1.6 metres of yarn (so I can get about 12 squares out of each ball). The size of your square and yardage may vary depending on your gauge.

The colours I’ve used for the squares in my blanket are as follow:

Sky Blue (439), Lime Green (429), Marine Blue (434), Washed Teal (433) & Dolphin Blue (437).

Here’s the basic pattern for the three row version:

Required Materials
3.5mm/E/4 hook
DK 100% Cotton (Paintbox)

Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch

Crochet Instructions

The motif is worked in the round.

ch4, join with sl st in first chain to form a ring.

Round 1 : ch 4 (counts as 1dc & ch2 sp – please see note below); (4dc in ring; ch2) 3 times; 3dc in ring and join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 4. (4x 4dc sts & 4x ch2 sps)

note: often 1dc & a ch2 space is represented by a chain 5 – I find this leaves a really big hole at the beginning of the round. To address this, I switch to a ch4 and when I come to finish off the round, sl st in the 3rd chain. You can either ch4 or ch5 – please use whichever looks best with your style of crochet – this applies to the start of all the rounds!

Round 2 : sl st into ch2 sp; ch 4 (counts as 1dc & ch2 sp), 2dc in same sp – partial corner made; (1dc in each of next 4sts; in ch2 corner sp – 2dc, ch2, 2dc – corner made) 3 times; 1dc in each of rem 4sts; in first corner – dc; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4. (4x 8dc sts & 4x ch2 sps)

Round 3 : sl st into ch2 sp; ch 4 (counts as 1dc & ch2 sp), 2dc in same sp – partial corner made; (1dc in each of next 8sts; in ch2 corner sp – 2dc, ch2, 2dc – corner made) 3 times; 1dc in each of rem 8sts; in first corner – dc; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4. Fasten off. (4x 12dc sts & 4x ch2 sps)

Click here for my free crochet pattern for my three round solid granny half motif.

Variations

You could also make this solid granny square crochet pattern using different weights of yarn, below are suggestions of the hook size :

  • 4ply / Sock Yarn – 3mm/C/2
  • Aran / Worsted Yarn – 5mm/H/8

Remember, the yardage and size of the finished motif will vary.

Disclosure : I use affiliate links for my favourite yarns and other accessories!

Category: Crochet, Free, Free Crochet Pattern, Motif, PatternTag: beginners crochet, blanket, crochet, crochet motif, crochet pattern, Easy, free, free crochet pattern, motif

Star Flower Crochet Motif – Basic Join

June 16, 2018 //  by mezza//  2 Comments

Join as you go crochet technique for the Start Flower crochet motifI’ve had a lot of interest in my Star Flower motif patterns, both the full and half motifs. I’m really sorry it’s taken me a while to get this post up, but at last here are the instructions showing you how to do the basic “join as you go” crochet technique for for the star flower motifs.

Making the video, charts and written instructions is pretty time consuming and always takes me longer than I think! Moreover, I’m on a real learning curve with the video editing so although I realise they are not brilliant as they are, I hope to improve with each new video!

Anyway, here you go…

I have also written up some instructions and a chart.

Joining the Main Star Flower Motif

(US crochet terminology)

Materials 

3.5mm/E/4 hook
DK 100% Cotton (Paintbox)

Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
prev – previous
rnd – round
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
sp(s) – space(s)
tr – treble crochet

The Star Flower motif is joined to the other motifs in the final round. The following instructions only cover how to join in the final round. For the full, single motif instructions, please click here.
For the purpose of these instructions, I have made the four motifs out of a different yarn which is thinner and requires a smaller hook size than my original motif. Here I am using Paintbox Yarn DK Cotton & a 3.5mm hook (by Tulip Etimo Rose, one of my favourite brands of crochet hook – I’d highly recommend them.)

Even if you do not like to use charts, please do take a look at the chart I have drawn, along with the written instructions and/or video, as it shows the layout and sequence of joining the motifs in this particular demonstration.

 

Crochet Instructions

Note : the ch6 “loops” at each corner of the motif are shared by adjoining motifs, so where there is no join, make the ch6 loop as usual but when you come to a ch6 loop of an adjacent motif, you join without making a further ch6 loop. 

Motifs are joined at the corners and in the middle of the ch8 sections.

You may also want to take a look at the list of “join as you go” crochet tips I’ve compiled at the end of the post.

Motif 1…Make one complete motif.

Motif 2…Make a second motif, stopping before you start the final round. You’ll be joining the second motif to the left hand side of the first motif. Start off as follows: ch1, sc in sp, ch3 picot; (ch8; at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch6, sc in next ch; ch8; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot) 2 times; ch8…

Corner join…at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, now, ensuring motif #1 is facing the right side up,  join the current motif to any ch6 loop from motif #1 as follows: remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch6 space, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch6 loop; sc into the next ch in the tip of the current motif – corner join made!

ch8 section join…Straight away, make a ch8 join, as follows: ch4, remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch8 space, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch8 space; ch4 – ch8 section join made! Continue making the motif : in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; make another ch8 section join…

Next, make another corner join: at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the next ch6 space of adjacent motif, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch6 loop; sc into the next ch in the tip of the current motif – second corner join made! Now finish off the motif: ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.

Motif 3…This third motif is joined to the top of the first motif. Again, make the third motif, stopping before you get to the final round. You may wish to place markers in the ch6 loops and ch8 sections to mark where you will join this current motif – it’s easy to get disorientated. Start off as follows: ch1, sc in sp, ch3 picot; (ch8; at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch6, sc in next ch; ch8; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot) 2 times; ch8…

Shared corner join…this join takes place in the top ch6 loop where motif 1 & 2 are already joined. At the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, now, ensuring the work is facing the right side up,  join the current motif to the shared ch6 loop of motifs 1& 2 as follows: remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch6 space, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch6 loop; sc into the next ch in the tip of the current motif – shared corner join made!

Now, continue with a ch8 section join, a ch3 picot in the ch2 space of the short petal and then another ch8 section join; make the last corner join; ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.

Motif 4…This last motif is joined along 2 sides and 3 corners. This time, make the fourth motif, but only up to the second corner; make a corner join in the remaining top ch6 loop of motif 2; proceed with a ch8 section join; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; make another ch8 section join; make a shared corner join (the central point where motifs 1, 2 & 3 join); make a ch8 section join to motif 3; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; make another ch8 section join; make the final corner join. ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.

Sew in all ends and block into shape.

Video:

 

crochet chart showing final round for joining motifs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“Join As You Go” crochet tips

 

If you are new to the “join as you go” technique, I would recommend implementing the following tips:

1. Work at a table so that you can lay the pieces flat. If you’re inexperienced, this technique isn’t well suited for lap work on the sofa!
2. Place a stitch marker in the centre section of your first motif – this helps you to keep orientated.
3. Before you join the next motif, decide where the joining points are going to be on the existing piece of work. Place stitch markers at the join points.
4. If you have 2 different coloured stitch markers, even better! Use one colour to mark corners and another colour for the ch8 section join. This is is particularly useful to help you keep track of where you are and what needs doing next.
5. Make as much of the final round as possible before joining – for example, if you’re joining along one side with two corners, make round four up the point where you need to join, i.e. the third corner. If you start off joining at the first two corners, you have to complete the remainder of the motif while it’s attached to the main body of the work, this can become quite cumbersome when the work becomes larger with more motifs.
6. Make sure, each time you join a new motif, that the work is facing the right way up!
7. Regularly lay the work out flat on the table and check all is well.
8. Don’t worry if it looks a bit scruffy. Once you’ve sewn in the ends and blocked, it will look much more presentable!

 

Category: Chart, Crochet, Free, Join As You Go, Motif, Pattern, Tutorial, VideoTag: crochet, crochet motif, crochet pattern, flower, free, join, join as you go

Rainbow Heirloom Little Square Crochet Motif – Free Pattern

March 23, 2018 //  by mezza//  Leave a Comment

I bought two bundles of Solo Light Minis by Rainbow Heirloom, on a whim when I saw them on Ysolda Teague’s website at the end of 2017. Although I love bright and cheerful colours, I tend to shy away from them, especially if I have to work out colour combinations on my own. It’s something I don’t feel confident doing, so when I saw these gorgeous mini skeins, with colour combinations already put together, I just couldn’t resist!

Straight away, I knew I’d like to make a scarf or wrap, made with lots of little motifs. The result is this little crochet square. I had a few people ask about the pattern on my Instagram feed, so here it is! There is also a free video tutorial for making this little motif. Please scroll down to the end of the post.

Little Rainbow Square Crochet Motif – Pattern

(US Crochet Terminology)

Materials
2.5mm/C/2 hook (I love Clover Amour Hooks)
Sock / Fingering Weight Single Ply 100% Superwash Merino Wool (or comparable)

Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
cl – cluster
dc – double crochet
esc – extended single crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sk – skip
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch

Special Stitches
esc (extended single crochet) – insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop, chain one, yarn over, draw off both loops on hook (to see how to make an esc, see video at 2:07).
ch3 picot – ch3, slip stitch into the single crochet previously made as follows – hold the ch3 to the back, out of the way, insert hook through both loops of the stitch from back to front, draw up a loop through the single crochet and the loop on the hook, gently pull tight to make a neat picot (to see how to make an ch3 picot, see video at 11:38).
ch4 picot – ch4, slip stitch, from front to back into the back ridge of the first chain made which is easy to find as it looks like a hole at the top of the cluster (to see how to make an ch4 picot, see video at 11:00).
6dc cl (6 double crochet cluster) – yarn over, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and draw though 2 loops) 6 times, yarn over and draw off all 7 loops on hook (to see how to make an 6dc cl, see video at 10:00).

Crochet Instructions

Note:
This pattern incorporates two slightly different picot stitches – both are described in the special stitch section and in the pattern.

With colour A, ch4 and join to form a ring.
Row 1 : ch1, into the ring, 8esc, finish round, skip 1st esc & sew round closed with an invisible join in 2nd esc. (8 sts)
Note – if this way doesn’t look neat, you can try it this way:
Row 1 : ch1, into the ring, 7esc, finish round, make last “stitch” by sewing the round closed with an invisible join in 1st esc. (8 sts)
Row 2 : join colour B, ch3, dc in same st; 2dc in each of the next 7 sts ;join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch3. (16 sts)
Row 3 : ch1, sc in same st, make a ch3 picot as follows – ch3 and sl st, inserting hook from the back to the front of the sc just made); ch4, sk1dc; in next dc make a 6dc cluster stitch as follows – (yo, insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yo and draw though 2 loops) 6 times, yo and draw off all 7 loops on hook ; make a ch4 picot as follows – ch4, sl st, from front to back, into the back ridge of the 1st ch (this presents itself as the hole at the top of the cluster); (ch4, sk1dc; sc in next st and make a ch3 picot; ch4, sk1dc; in next dc make a 6dc bobble, make a ch4 picot in the top of the bobble st just made) 3 times; ch3 & join with sl st into 1st sc of rnd.

Supporting video tutorial here:

Crochet chart:


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’m currently working on a post and video which goes over how to join the motifs.

Category: Crochet, Free, Free Crochet Pattern, Motif, Pattern, Tutorial, VideoTag: crochet, crochet motif, crochet pattern, motif, pattern, square, video

Half Star Flower Crochet Motif – Free Pattern

March 14, 2018 //  by mezza//  5 Comments

I’ve put together the following instructions for a half motif of my “Star Flower” crochet block. This is useful for filling in the edge spaces or gaps if you’re using the main motif at a 45 degree angle. As mentioned in my previous post, I’m using Debbie Bliss Luxury Silk DK in colour Sage (48008) with a 4mm crochet hook (Clover Amour – one of my favourites).

Half Star Flower Crochet Motif – Pattern

(US crochet terminology)

Materials
4mm/G/6 hook
DK 100% Silk Yarn (or comparable)

Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
dtr – double treble
hdc – half double crochet
prev – previous
row – row
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
sp(s) – space(s)
tr – treble crochet

Crochet Instructions

This half motif is worked in rows, not rounds, i.e. you will turn the work after each row.

Ch5 and join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Row 1 : ch3 (counts as 1dc & ch1 sp); into the ring – (hdc, ch1) 4 times; hdc. (6 x hdc, 5 x ch1 sps)
Row 2 : ch9 ; sk 1ch, hdc in next st; ch6; sk 1ch, hdc in next st; ch8; sk 1ch, hdc in next st; ch6; sk 1ch, hdc in next st; ch4, dtr in 2nd ch of beg ch3 of prev row.
Row 3 : ch6; in sp – dtr, ch1, 2dc, hdc, sc; sl st in next hdc; in ch 6 sp – ch1, hdc, dc, ch2, dc, ch1; sl st in next hdc; in ch8 sp – sc, hdc, 2dc, ch1, tr, ch4, tr, ch1, 2dc, hdc, sc; sl st in next hdc; in ch 6 sp – ch1, hdc, dc, ch2, dc, ch1; sl st in next hdc; sl st in next hdc; complete the final petal, in the ch9 sp – sc, hdc, 2dc, ch1, tr, ch1, then dtr in 5th ch of beg ch9 from prev row. (1 x long petal with ch4 sp at tip, 2 x short petals with ch2 sp at tip, 2x half long petals)
Round 4 : ch6, sc in ch1 sp; ch8; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; ch8; at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch6, sc in next ch; ch8; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; ch8; sc in last ch6 sp; ch6, join with sl st in 5th ch of beg ch6 from prev row.
Fasten off.
Sew in ends and wet block.

The supporting video can be found here:

And here’s a chart in case you prefer that:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Instructions for the full motif can be found here.

Instructions for joining the motif can be found here.

Category: Chart, Crochet, Free, Free Crochet Pattern, Motif, PatternTag: crochet, crochet motif, crochet pattern, free crochet pattern

Star Flower Crochet Motif – Free Pattern

March 7, 2018 //  by mezza//  6 Comments

My free Star Flower crochet motif is a relatively easy, four round pattern that I designed specifically to be economic with yarn. Hence the nice, open construction means I’m using less of my expensive yarn!

I wanted to make another crochet motif tunic dress to wear either with leggings or over a slip. A while ago I purchased a job lot of Debbie Bliss Luxury Silk DK yarn on ebay for quite a good price. At first, I didn’t have an intended project for it. I usually make something to wear to the Unravel festival at Farnham Maltings and I did plan, 5 days before the festival, to make a tunic from the lovely silk yarn. Needless to say, with all my other commitments, this was rather unrealistic. Additionally I ran out of yarn.

So, instead (now that the extra yarn has arrived!) I have decided to share my process of making the tunic as I get a lot of interest from crocheters and non-crocheters alike whenever I wear one of my tunics. Therefore, I’ll initiate the series today with the basic starting motif.

I’ve put together written instructions (which will be available as a download from Ravelry), a chart (just a rough sketch, I’m afraid!) and a video. The video is really intended as a companion to the written pattern & chart.

If you’ve had a go at making this motif, please do let me know! I love to see what people have been up to! If you use Instagram, you can follow me @mezzamay, please tag your photos #mezzacraft.

Thank you!

Star Flower Crochet Motif (Main) – Pattern

(US crochet terminology)

Materials
4mm/G/6 hook
DK 100% Silk Yarn (or comparable)

Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
prev – previous
rnd – round
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
sp(s) – space(s)
tr – treble crochet

Finished dimensions: 12cm or 4 3/4 inches.

Crochet Instructions

Ch6 and join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 : ch3 (counts as 1dc & ch1 sp); into the ring – (hdc, ch1) 7 times; join with sl st in 2nd ch of beg ch3. (8 x hdc, 8 x ch1 sps)
Round 2 : ch10 (counts as 1hdc & ch8); (sk 1ch, hdc in next st; ch6; sk 1ch, hdc in next st; ch8) 3 times; sk 1ch, hdc in next st; ch2, tr in 2nd ch of beg ch10. (4 x ch8 sps, 4 x ch6 sps)

Round 3 : ch5 (counts as 1dc & ch2 sp); in ch6 sp – dc, hdc, ch1; sl st in 2nd ch of beg ch10 from prev rnd; (in ch8 sp – sc, hdc, 2dc, ch1, tr, ch4, tr, ch1, 2dc, hdc, sc; sl st in next hdc; in ch 6 sp – ch1, hdc, dc, ch2, dc, ch1; sl st in next hdc) 3 times; in ch8 sp – sc, hdc, 2dc, ch1, tr, ch4, tr, ch1, 2dc, hdc, sc; sl st in next hdc; complete the final petal, in the ch6 sp – ch1, hdc, dc, join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch5. (4 x long petals with ch4 sp at tip, 4 x short petals with ch2 sp at tip)
Round 4 : ch1, sc in sp, ch3 picot; (ch8; at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch6, sc in next ch; ch8; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot) 3 times; ch8; at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch6, sc in next ch; ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.
Sew in ends and wet block.

The supporting video can be found here:

And here’s a chart in case you prefer that:

Click here for instructions for the half motif.

Click here for instructions on how to join the motifs.

Disclosure : I use affiliate links for my favourite yarns and other accessories!

Category: Chart, Crochet, Free, Free Crochet Pattern, Motif, Pattern, VideoTag: crochet, crochet motif, crochet pattern, flower, free crochet pattern, motif, star

Riverhouse Charity Blanket Motif – Free Crochet Pattern

November 16, 2016 //  by mezza//  Leave a Comment

mezzacraft_free_crochet_motif

This hexagonal motif uses DK cotton yarn in whites, creams and light browns/beiges. You can of course use different yarn weights and colours to make your own unique blanket!

PDF Pattern can be downloaded from here or Ravelry.

This free pattern was developed with the aim of raising money for the Riverhouse Arts Centre in Walton-on-Thames. We would be extremely grateful for any donations of motifs you have made!  If you’d like to contribute to the charity blanket(s), Please make sure the motifs you’ve made meet the guidelines and then drop them off or send them to:

Riverhouse Hookers
Riverhouse Arts Centre
Manor Road
Walton-on-Thames
Surrey
KT12 2PF

Guidelines for contributing to the Riverhouse Charity Blanket(s)
Yarn: Please use DK 100% cotton yarn such as Drops Muskat, Rico Essentials Cotton, King Cole Cotton Soft, Sirdar Cotton DK…
Colours: White, beige, cream, light brown etc.
Motif size: The size of the finished motif is more important than the size of hook you use. Please make sure the motif is between 13-14cm across the widest point.
Finishing: please weave/sew in all ends EXCEPT the final round. For the final round, please cut the yarn, leaving approx 10cm tail and then just pull the live loop until the tail comes out.

 

Copyright notice

This is a free pattern, however, please do not copy, share or sell this pattern, in any format, including online. Please only share the link on my website to the pattern: bit.ly/2eFgQ7n 

You may use this motif to make blankets to sell, either for charity or personal profit if you are a small scale crafter. All I ask is that you place the following text credit, either in your online listing or on a tag with the finished item: Design from www.mezzacraft.com

You may not use the pattern for large scale, commercial manufacturing.

Thank you and happy crafting!

Category: Charity, Crochet, Free, Free Crochet Pattern, Pattern, Riverhouse HookersTag: blanket, charity, crochet, crochet hexagon, crochet motif, crochet pattern, free, free crochet pattern, hexagon, motif

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