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Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch

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I’m going to show you how to make this very simple, but effective stitch pattern. I’ve coined it the “Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch” pattern, and it’s quite a simple crochet stitch combination. Click here to jump straight to the instructions. It only uses US double crochets (UK trebles) and US half doubles (UK half trebles). What I really like about it, is that it’s not a completely solid fabric – it has, what I call perforations, so it’s also not too open and therefore, it’s quite good for garments where you don’t want a totally solid stitch pattern, but at the same time, you want a bit of modesty that you might not get with a very lacy pattern.

close up of crocheted vest top in pinstripe crochet stitch pattern from mezzacraft ...worn by mezza

I designed this stitch pattern for a summer top. The top is crocheted from side to side so I’ve actually used the stitch pattern vertically which gives this nice, pinstripe effect. The top is crocheted with a 4ply yarn in a wool/silk blend and a 2.75mm hook, a combination that gives a really nice drape for a garment. Additionally, because of the way light shines on silk, it means that these horizontal stitches catch the light slightly differently to the vertical stitches which just gives a really interesting texture.

You can, of course, use different thicknesses of yarn and larger hook sizes.

Same stitch, different yarn!

Here you can see that the different yarns, thicknesses and hook size do generate quite different kinds of fabric that you could use for lots of different crochet projects. For example, the Aran/Worsted weight would make quite a nice cowl or even a hat. The stitch in DK could make a lovely baby blanket since the holes in the fabric are not big enough for babies’ fingers to get stuck in. You can see a stitch in a whole new light when you change the type of yarn and the hook size – each one catches the light differently and shows the stitches up in a slightly different way.

perforated pinstripes crochet stitch - sample in4ply/fingering weight yarn

4ply/Fingering

For the 4ply swatch, I’ve used a 2.5mm hook for the starting chain and a 2.75mm hook for the main stitch pattern.
The gauge is : 24sts and 13 rows to 10cm (4”).
Yarn details : Posh Yarn Undyed Dorothy Sock (50% Superwash Merino, 50% Silk) www.poshyarn.co.uk

pintripe crochet stitch in double knit yarn

DK (double knit or heavy Sport weight)

For the double knit swatch, I’ve used a 3mm hook for the starting chain and a 3.5 mm hook for the main stitch pattern.
The gauge is : 22sts and 12 rows to 10cm (4”).
Yarn details : MillaMia Naturally Soft Merino in Putty Grey (121)

simple perforated crochet stitch in worsted weight yarn

Aran / Worsted

For the Aran swatch, I’ve used a 4mm hook for the starting chain and 4.5mm hook for the main stitch pattern.
The gauge is : 18sts and 9 rows to 10cm (4”).
Yarn details : Rico Essentials Soft Merino Aran in Cream (61)

The Importance of Swatching

I wanted to make the same top again but this time in some 4ply cotton.  I crocheted up a swatch but didn’t like the drape of the fabric – it was very stiff at the correct gauge. There can be quite a lot variation in yarn thickness from one brand of 4ply to another which isn’t all that evident until you actually work it up. And that’s one of the reasons why I always suggest swatching, especially when you’re making garments, because it’s not just about getting the gauge spot on so that the item will fit you, it’s also about just seeing whether you actually like the fabric that will result in using the stitch pattern, the yarn, the hook size and getting the gauge.

Remember to wash and block your swatch too. This is particularly important if you are making a garment as the gauge, because drape and stitch definition of the fabric can alter considerably, especially with natural fibres.

Matching Chain and Stitch Gauge

two crochet swatching showing the difference in using a smaller hook for the starting chain

One thing I need to point for this stitch pattern and the resulting top that I made, is that I had to go down a hook size for the starting chain because it didn’t match the gauge of the main stitch pattern. You might be fortunate in that the gauge for your starting chain and swatch match but you won’t really know this before you start so this is another reason why it’s really important to swatch because this is the kind of thing that can show up that you might not have thought about.
So here you can see another swatch sample that I crocheted up. I used the same hook size for the starting chain as I did for the main body of the stitches. What you’ll notice is that the starting chain doesn’t match the gauge of the stitches, i.e. the gauge is bigger, resulting in the bottom edge of my swatch being distorted and too wide. If you’re making a garment or a blanket and you use the same size hook for the chain as the stitches, you’re going to end up with the bottom or edge, depending on where you’ve started being much too long. So in the case of the top, it means one of your side seams will be out of proportion.
To correct the disparity between the gauges, I used a 2mm hook for the starting chain and then for row one, I switched to the 2.75mm, which gave me matching gauges. For the other swatches in this post, I only went down 0.5mm in hook size. You might need a small amount of trial an error. I am a big advocate for adding hooks in in the smaller, 0.25mm increments to your collection, because these can often be the key to getting correct gauge for garments.

Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch – Instructions

You can find video instructions here which includes lots of additional tips. Check the comment under the video for the timestamp, click to jump straight to the stitch pattern instructions:

Downloadable Instructions

Download a .pdf here, which includes a stitch chart : Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch – Instructions

Tools & Materials

You can use any yarn weight and corresponding hook size. For these instructions, I am using a 4ply/sock weight yarn with 2.5mm hook for the starting chain and switching to a 2.75mm hook for the main stitch pattern.

Stitch pattern repeat

3 – so to make a larger piece of fabric, increase your starting chain in increments of 3.

TIP : Try to keep the chains true to hook size, i.e. when you crochet, keep the loop exactly the same size as the diameter of the hook, rather than extending the loop. For this particular pattern, it keeps the stitches really neat, minimizes the gaps between the tall stitches and enhances the effect of the “perforations”.

Start with the smaller hook, ch 26.

Row 1 (RS): Working into the back ridge of the chain, dc into the 4th ch from the hook, 1dc into each ch. (24sts, counting the turning ch)

Row 2 (WS): ch2, don’t sk any stitches; 1hdc; *sk1st 1hdc in each of the next 2sts, 1hdc around 2hdc just made*; repeat from *to* until 2sts rem; sk1st, 1hdc in last st (which was the ch3 turning ch of Row 1). (7 sets of wrapped hdcs, 8 perforations)

Note: from now on, at the start of every round, there’s going to be a ch2 turning chain. This chain is never worked into, nor is it ever counted as a stitch.

Row 3 (RS): ch2, 1dc into 1st st; *1dc in sp; 1dc into each of 2 wrapped hdcs*; repeat from *to* until 2sts rem; 1dc in last sp; 1dc in last st. (24sts)

Row 4 (WS): ch2, don’t sk any stitches; 1hdc; *sk1st 1hdc in each of the next 2sts, 1hdc around 2hdc just made*; repeat from *to* until 2sts rem; sk1st, 1hdc in last st. (7 sets of wrapped hdcs, 8 perforations)

Repeat rows 3-4 as desired, ending with a Row 3 for symmetry.

If you are swatching, make a total of 13 rows.

Hand wash your swatch in luke warm water with a mild detergent. I like to use a gentle shampoo. Do not wring. Squeeze out the excess water between two layers of a clean towel. Lay flat on a towel, gently pulling into shape to open up the stitches. You can pin it square with some stainless steel (rust free) pins if you like. Allow to dry naturally.

I hope you like my Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch – if you give it a try, please let me know!

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You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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Feather & Fan Crochet Stitch Pattern – With Video Tutorial

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My biggest gripe with many modern crochet patterns for clothing is that the garments nearly always end up being too bulky, heavy and HOT…not to mention requiring an inordinate amount of yarn! So I often explore crochet stitches that are suitable for clothing because they are lacey or open whilst still retaining a structural integrity to the fabric. That’s why I love this Feather & Fan Crochet Stitch Pattern, a lacey, ripple stitch… it has solid areas and airy sections and when used in a fingering or 4ply/sock-weight yarn, it makes the perfect material for a top. And I did make 2 tops with this chevron stitch. While I was making the tops, I decided to try different coloured stripes with some fingering weight mini skeins I had and ended up making a baby blanket. I will share details for making the blanket and top later on. But first, here’s the stitch pattern!

Feather & Fan Crochet Stitch Instructions

Yarn Thickness & Hook Size

4ply/Fingering weight yarn – 3.5mm/E.
DK/Sport weight yarn – 4mm/G.
Worsted/Aran weight yarn – 5mm/H.

Note : hook sizes are a guide only – please use whichever hook gives you your prefered fabric, e.g. if you’re making a blanket you don’t want it to be too stiff and tight so you might opt for a slightly larger hook than usual.

What type of yarn?

This stitch pattern really comes to life after it’s been washed and blocked – the “feather” element opens up beautifully. Natural fibers with good stitch memory work best with this pattern. So wool & cotton blends are a good example. Synthetic yarns such as acrylic may not give the desired result.

In the tutorial I have used a wool & cotton blend – Cotton Merino from Mayflower.

For the colourful baby blanket, I have used 4ply Hand Dyed Superfine Merino from WitchCraftyLady on Etsy. I would really recommend this yarn, it is beautifully soft and the colours that Almas uses to dye the yarn are so joyful to work with. She’s also an excellent seller and you always receive amazing service from her.

What is stitch memory?

I’ll explain, in case you don’t know what “stitch memory” is – it means a yarn that retains the shape of the stitch you have made, rather than trying to spring back into its natural form. So fibers such as linen, cotton & wool, once washed and blocked, will open up and lock into the stitch pattern. Some synthetic fibers on the the other hand, such as acrylic, tend to spring back after washing and blocking rather than retaining some of the key features of the stitch pattern. This is particularly noticeable in stitches that are open or lacey. Having said that, you can get away with a small amount of synthetic fiber in the yarn, for example if you are using a sock yarn that has some nylon, you should still get a good result.

three colourful images showing sections of crocheted blanket in bright handdyed yarn ripple stitch

Feather & Fan Crochet Stitch Pattern

Written instructions & chart can be downloaded here (opens in new tab).

Video tutorial is below:

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making. Don’t forget to use #mezzamay 🙂

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Affiliate Links

I use affiliate links in my posts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission, at no additional cost to you.

Support me!

If you have enjoyed my free content or have found my tips and techniques useful, please consider making a small donation by buying me a coffee via Ko-fi.

Crochet Lucet Cord Tutorial

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Throughout the years I’ve taught crochet , there have been many projects where a cord is required (e.g. the mesh soap bag). There are many options for making cords and having tried various methods, I’ve found that the Crochet Lucet Cord or Four Sided Chain is my favourite option for the following reasons:

  1. You don’t need any special equipment – yes, you can make a lucet cord without a lucet!
  2. You can use the hook you’re already using for your project.
  3. The technique is easy to memorise.
  4. Once you get a rhythm going, the cord works up pretty quickly.
  5. It makes a firm and thick cord.
  6. The finished cord is flexible yet strong.
  7. It’s very attractive – it looks like a four sided chain.

Materials

  • Yarn – thicker is better for a good effect. I’m using a DK weight yarn doubled up (Paintbox Cotton DK in Melon Sorbet).
  • A crochet hook – in this example I’m using a 3.5mm hook (Clover Amour). Use a slightly smaller hook than you’d normally use for the yarn thickness otherwise the stitches in the cord can end up being too slack.

How much yarn will I need for my cord?

You’ll need about 9 x the finished length of your cord.
E.g. desired cord is 30cm /12 inches long, so I’ll need 2.7 m / 3 yards of yarn or 2 x 2.7 m / 3 yards if you’re doubling up.

Crochet Instructions

  • Wind off a separate ball of yarn from your main skein to make a double thickness thread – tie the ends together to keep them together to start with.
  • With the tail end to the left, lay the yarn on a flat surface in an “arc” shape (fig. 1).
  • Fold over the top of the arc (fig. 2) , to make 2 “loops”.
  • Insert the hook into the right loop, from above, then, coming from underneath, bring the hook up through the left loop (fig. 3) .
orange cotton dk yarn showing steps to making a crochet lucet cord
  • Pull the loops tight on the hook (fig. 4).
  • Rearrange the yarn – move the working end of the yarn over the left and hold the tail end as if to make a chain (fig. 5).
  • Yarn over and pull a loop through the first loop on the hook, i.e. ch1 with the left loop (fig. 5).
red crochet hook and orange cotton yarn showing how to make a crochet lucet cord
  • Carefully remove this loop from the hook (fig. 7).
  • Pinch this loop between your thumb and middle finger (or forefinger if you use your middle finger to feed the yarn) to stop it coming undone when you work the next stitch (fig. 8).
  • Ch1 with the right loop (fig. 9).
  • Replace the left loop on the hook (fig. 10)…
  • …and ch1 with the left loop (fig. 11).
  • Continue in this way, i.e. drop & hold left loop, ch1 right loop, replace left loop; ch1 left loop…until the cord measures desired length (fig. 12).
  • To finish off, after a ch1 left loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through both the left and right loops (fig. 13).
  • Cut the yarn, yarn over and pull through the loop on the hook and all the way out. Pull tight (fig. 14).
  • Tie a tight knot in each end and trim, or as in this example, you could also add a bead at each end for a decorative effect (fig. 15).
hands crocheting a lucet cord using yellow cotton yarn

TIP : To even out the cord, roll it between your fingers and pull it gently all along is length. This makes a big difference to the look of the cord – making it firmer and smoother.

You can also find a video of this technique on my YouTube channel:

Disclosure

I sometimes use affiliate links to my favourite yarns, hooks and other craft materials.

Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go For Half Motif

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Granny Stitch Border, Join As You Go For Half Motifs
(US Crochet Terminology)
Here I show you how to make the joins for the half motifs. It’s only slightly different to the granny stitch join for the solid motifs, the two main differences being that the border/join is worked flat, i.e. turned after each row, and that the first and last cluster is made up of 4 stitches rather than 3. I have written out the instructions again, so if you’ve already followed the pattern for the full motif, I apologise for any repetition!
Materials 
Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sk – skip
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
Special stitches & techniques:
sl st join (in ch2 corner space) – insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook.
ch2 sl st join – ch1, insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
join between clusters – after you’ve made a 3dc cluster, insert hook from above into corresponding sp between clusters on adjacent motif, pull up a loop and pull it through the space and through the loop on the (i.e. sl st join).
shared ch2 sl st join – instead of working into a space, you’re working into a previous sl st join so you’ll need to locate the relevant stitch first, ch1, insert hook into sl st, from right to left. Pull up a loop through the slip stitch and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
Crochet Instructions (Abbreviated)

To demonstrate the technique, I’m using the four motifs previously made and turned them around 45 degrees. I’ve made 8 half motifs, ready to join.
half or triangle crochet motifs in position ready for join

E – Granny Stitch Border & Join for Half Motif

The border is worked in rows, along the two shortest sides of the triangle. Here it’s joined along one side of an adjacent motif and into a shared corner.
Round 1: With WRONG SIDE FACING Join yarn into first dc st of your “Half Solid Granny Square” motif; ch3 (counts as 1dc), 3dc in same st [fig1]; *(sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 3 times [fig2]; sk3dc*; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made* [fig3]; repeat from * to * once more; in last remaining st, i.e. a ch3, in 3rd ch – 4dc [fig3]
You should have: 4 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner, 1 x 4dc cluster at start & finish.
crochet instructions for granny stitch join with half motif
Round 2: ch3, TURN WORK [fig5]; make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, 3dc in same st [fig6]; continue round 2 as per pattern, remembering to join between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the next corner [fig7]; 3dc in ch2 sp, make a shared ch2 sl st join into adjacent motifs, 3dc in corner sp [fig8]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 3 times; sk3dc, last remaining st is a ch3 [fig9], in 3rd ch – 4dc; fasten off [fig10].
round two of half motif granny stitch join

F – Granny Stitch Border & Join for Half Motif

Here the border is joined along both sides including a shared corner join.
Round 1: As E
Round 2: ch3, TURN WORK [fig11]; make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, 3dc in same st [fig12]; continue round 2 as per pattern, remembering to join between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the next corner [fig13]; 3dc in ch2 sp, make a shared ch2 sl st join into adjacent motifs, 3dc in corner sp [fig14]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the last remaining st [fig15]– this is a ch3, in 3rd ch – 3dc, make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, ch3, sl st in same st as 3dc just made; fasten off [fig16].
granny stitch crochet join for triangle motifJoin the remaining 6 half motifs in the same way as F & G. Don’t worry if the edges of your granny stitch border join & half motifs don’t look particularly neat, this will be redressed when we crochet the final borders.solid squares and triangle crochet motifs joined
If you’d like to see more of my crochet work and current knitting/crochet projects I’m currently working on, please do follow me on instagram. I’m mezzamay. And if you happen to make any of my patterns, don’t forget to tag your posts #mezzacraft .

Sewing In Ends Of Crochet Projects

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I often get asked how I weave in my ends and what is the best way to sew in ends of crocheted projects so that they don’t come undone or look messy. I’ve put together this post to show you how I’m weaving in the ends of a project. The project features solid granny motifs and the traditional granny stitch. It also deals in particular with very short ends which can be difficult to handle. It’s not a definitive guide – I’m just sharing with you how I do it.

Projects using multiple motifs are a great favourite of mine. I know other crocheters also love making motifs but are put off by all the ends that need sewing in. This is a time consuming task which is made all the more daunting when you are not really sure how to do it.

How do you make sure it’s secure?

In my experience, the key to a securely hidden end is to sew in one direction, then back on itself in the opposite direction, whilst making sure a stitch is caught or sewn over so that you’re not just undoing the stitch you’ve just made. I use a standard wool needle for knitters. It has a large eye and relatively blunt tip. Specifically, I use Pony Gold Eye Sewing Needles.

To start with, I always make the first step of securing the ends while crocheting. I.e. when I actually join the new yarn colour to the project. I do this by crocheting over the tail end for 3 or 4 stitches. Initially this doesn’t seem a very secure start. Worry not, as the final sewn step keeps everything in place. This works well with solid stitch patterns and clusters but is often not possible when you’re making a lacy or very open pattern. In these instances, you’ll need to employ other strategies.

If you’ve managed to catch the end in during crocheting, you only need to sew it back on itself again. Remember to catch in or skip over the first strand so that you’re not undoing the stitch.

How do you deal with very short ends?

When you have a short tail to sew in, start with the needle in the fabric/stitches where you want to sew and then thread the needle. I tend to use my thumb nail to push the yarn through the eye.

In most cases, sewing in one direction and then the other is enough to ensure the work doesn’t come undone. Don’t forget to skip a strand of yarn when you change direction (see second image above). However, if you’re making something for a baby, or a gift or a paid commission, you may want to add an extra step. I.e. change direction and sew back again before trimming the yarn. If you’ve got a very short tail, carefully pull the needle through, without un-threading it. Then use the eye of the needle to sew back on itself. This technique is not advisable if your needle is sharp!

How do you ensure it looks neat?

I always try to sew the ends into a congested area of stitches, such as a corner or cluster. I find this offers the most secure spot and the tail end finds it difficult to wriggle.

Sometimes, such as here, where the corners of the four motifs join, there is no congested area to conceal a tail end. Instead I make a running stitch into the post of an adjacent stitch – here it’s a double crochet, until I came to a denser area suitable for sewing into.

For both methods, I find it best to work from the back of the fabric. I check the front occasionally to make sure I haven’t left any visible stitches that might blemish my work on the right side. It is also important to ensure your sewing matches the gauge of your crochet pattern. After each sewn stitch, I gently pull the fabric to make sure my weaving in isn’t creating any pulls or puckering.

Lastly, I like to use a small pair of sewing scissors to CAREFULLY snip off the remaining tail end. Sadly, I have had disasters in the past. Once, coming to the last few threads, I managed to cut a hole in a project when I was rushing and excited to finish!

Project details:
  • This is a large wrap made using a modified version of the Blue Buoy Blanket pattern.
  • The pattern for the three row solid granny square can be found here.
  • The traditional granny stitch border an join can be found here.
  • KnitPro Zing Hook – size 3.25mm.
  • Yarn is sock weight/fingering yarn from Posh Yarn …25 different hand dyed shades in total!

And here’s a video.

Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join for Three Round Solid Squares

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Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go For Full Motifs
(US Crochet Terminology)
As per my Blue Buoy Blanket, here I’m using the classic 3 double crochet granny cluster stitch as a two row border and joining with the last round to adjacent squares with slip stitches. Although this can be seen as a no-sew option, there will still be quite a few ends to weave in. To make this less of a chore, I tend to try and discipline myself to sew in ends after certain milestones. E.g. after I’ve joined 10 motifs, I’ll spend time sewing in the ends before I allow myself to do any more of the fun bits, i.e. crocheting!
To demonstrate the granny stitch border and joining technique, I am making a cushion cover which is made up of 4 square motifs and 8 half/triangle motifs. Once you have mastered the basic principle, it’s pretty easy to scale this up to larger items such as blankets or wraps.
At this point, I would like to say that I have not had this pattern tested or tech edited. Please do let me know if you have any issues or need any help. This crochet tutorial just covers joining the full, square motifs. Thank you!
Materials 
Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sk – skip
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
Special stitches & techniques:
sl st join (in ch2 corner space) – insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook.
ch2 sl st join – ch1, insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
join between clusters – after you’ve made a 3dc cluster, insert hook from above into corresponding sp between clusters on adjacent motif, pull up a loop and pull it through the space and through the loop on the (i.e. sl st join).
shared ch2 sl st join – instead of working into a space, you’re working into a previous sl st join so you’ll need to locate the relevant stitch first, ch1, insert hook into sl st, from right to left. Pull up a loop through the slip stitch and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
A note about joins:
A join shouldn’t be too loose so that the work looks sloppy, but neither should it be pulled too tightly as this will affect the flexibility and make the work stiff. Importantly, you don’t want the slip stitch too tight as you may need to work back into it for a shared join.
Crochet Instructions (Abbreviated)
A – Granny Stitch Border (Without Join)
Round 1: Join yarn into any ch2 corner of your “Solid Granny Square” motif; ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; *sk3dc, 3dc in next st; (sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 2 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made*;  repeat from * to * 3 times; sk3dc, 3dc in next st; (sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 2 times; working back into the first corner sp – 2dc, join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4. (5 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner)
Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; *(sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made*; repeat from * to * 3 times; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters; working back into the first corner sp – 2dc, join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off. [fig1]  (6 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner)
granny stitch crochet border & join layout
B – Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join
The motif is joined along one side and to two corners of motif A.
Round 1: As A.granny stitch join step by step instructions
Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc [fig2], make a ch2 sl st join into motif A, as follows: ch1, insert hook from above into ch2 sp of the bottom left hand corner of motif A [fig3], pull up a loop and pull it through ch2 corner sp and through loop on hook (sl st join) [fig4], ch1; 3dc in corner sp [fig5]; continue round 2, joining between clusters to motif A as follows: * insert hook from above into adjacent sp between clusters on motif A [fig6], pull up a loop and pull it through sp and loop on hook (sl st join) [fig7]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters [fig8]; *; repeat from * to * 4 times; sl st join between adjacent clusters on motif A [fig9]; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top left hand corner of motif A; 3dc in corner sp [fig10]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; finish off first corner – 2dc into corner sp; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off [fig11].
granny stitch crochet border instructions
C – Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join
The motif is joined along one side and to two corners of motif A, including a shared corner join with motif B.
Round 1: As A.
Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times [fig12]; in ch2 corner sp– 3dc, make a shared ch2 sl st join into join of A & B, as follows: ch1, insert hook, from right to left, through sl st join [fig13], pull up a loop and pull it through the sl st join and the loop on hook, ch1 [fig14]; 3dc in corner sp [fig15]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to motif A; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top right hand corner of motif A [fig16]; 3dc in corner sp; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; finish off first corner – 2dc into corner sp; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off [fig17].
granny stitch join tutorial
D – Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join
The motif is joined along two sides and at three corner points, including a shared corner join with motif A,B & C.
Round 1: As A.
Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) [fig18]; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top left corner of motif B; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to motif B [fig19]; in ch2 corner sp– 3dc [fig20], make a shared ch2 sl st join into join of A, B & C, 3dc [fig21]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to motif C; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top left corner of motif C [fig22]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; finish off first corner – 2dc into corner sp; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off. [fig23]
traditional granny stitch border and join for square motifs
For instructions of how to join the half motifs, please see this post.
Ideas & Suggestions

There are lots of ways you could utilise and modify this simple border and join:

  1. Luxurious Wrap – Make use of your hand-dyed sock yarn scraps to crochet small, solid squares and then use another luxury 4ply & the Granny Stitch Border to join it all together.
  2. More Granny – love the granny stitch? It’s easy enough to increase the number of rows from 2 to 3 or 4… maybe more! This would give a different look which I’d love to see.
  3. Try it in craft cotton or string to make a market bag or re-usable shopping bag.
  4. How would it look in variegated yarn?
  5. Or how about a funky top? Make two simple rectangles, slightly wider than your bust…seam shoulders and sides for a colourful addition to your wardrobe!

As always, I love seeing what you’ve made or if you’d like to share your ideas, please do get in touch or tag your projects #mezzacraft if you use Instagram.

 

Star Flower Crochet Motif – Basic Join

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Join as you go crochet technique for the Start Flower crochet motifI’ve had a lot of interest in my Star Flower motif patterns, both the full and half motifs. I’m really sorry it’s taken me a while to get this post up, but at last here are the instructions showing you how to do the basic “join as you go” crochet technique for for the star flower motifs.

Making the video, charts and written instructions is pretty time consuming and always takes me longer than I think! Moreover, I’m on a real learning curve with the video editing so although I realise they are not brilliant as they are, I hope to improve with each new video!

Anyway, here you go…

I have also written up some instructions and a chart.

Joining the Main Star Flower Motif

(US crochet terminology)

Materials 

3.5mm/E/4 hook
DK 100% Cotton (Paintbox)

Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
prev – previous
rnd – round
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
sp(s) – space(s)
tr – treble crochet

The Star Flower motif is joined to the other motifs in the final round. The following instructions only cover how to join in the final round. For the full, single motif instructions, please click here.
For the purpose of these instructions, I have made the four motifs out of a different yarn which is thinner and requires a smaller hook size than my original motif. Here I am using Paintbox Yarn DK Cotton & a 3.5mm hook (by Tulip Etimo Rose, one of my favourite brands of crochet hook – I’d highly recommend them.)

Even if you do not like to use charts, please do take a look at the chart I have drawn, along with the written instructions and/or video, as it shows the layout and sequence of joining the motifs in this particular demonstration.

 

Crochet Instructions

Note : the ch6 “loops” at each corner of the motif are shared by adjoining motifs, so where there is no join, make the ch6 loop as usual but when you come to a ch6 loop of an adjacent motif, you join without making a further ch6 loop. 

Motifs are joined at the corners and in the middle of the ch8 sections.

You may also want to take a look at the list of “join as you go” crochet tips I’ve compiled at the end of the post.

Motif 1…Make one complete motif.

Motif 2…Make a second motif, stopping before you start the final round. You’ll be joining the second motif to the left hand side of the first motif. Start off as follows: ch1, sc in sp, ch3 picot; (ch8; at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch6, sc in next ch; ch8; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot) 2 times; ch8…

Corner join…at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, now, ensuring motif #1 is facing the right side up,  join the current motif to any ch6 loop from motif #1 as follows: remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch6 space, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch6 loop; sc into the next ch in the tip of the current motif – corner join made!

ch8 section join…Straight away, make a ch8 join, as follows: ch4, remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch8 space, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch8 space; ch4 – ch8 section join made! Continue making the motif : in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; make another ch8 section join…

Next, make another corner join: at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the next ch6 space of adjacent motif, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch6 loop; sc into the next ch in the tip of the current motif – second corner join made! Now finish off the motif: ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.

Motif 3…This third motif is joined to the top of the first motif. Again, make the third motif, stopping before you get to the final round. You may wish to place markers in the ch6 loops and ch8 sections to mark where you will join this current motif – it’s easy to get disorientated. Start off as follows: ch1, sc in sp, ch3 picot; (ch8; at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch6, sc in next ch; ch8; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot) 2 times; ch8…

Shared corner join…this join takes place in the top ch6 loop where motif 1 & 2 are already joined. At the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, now, ensuring the work is facing the right side up,  join the current motif to the shared ch6 loop of motifs 1& 2 as follows: remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch6 space, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch6 loop; sc into the next ch in the tip of the current motif – shared corner join made!

Now, continue with a ch8 section join, a ch3 picot in the ch2 space of the short petal and then another ch8 section join; make the last corner join; ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.

Motif 4…This last motif is joined along 2 sides and 3 corners. This time, make the fourth motif, but only up to the second corner; make a corner join in the remaining top ch6 loop of motif 2; proceed with a ch8 section join; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; make another ch8 section join; make a shared corner join (the central point where motifs 1, 2 & 3 join); make a ch8 section join to motif 3; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; make another ch8 section join; make the final corner join. ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.

Sew in all ends and block into shape.

Video:

 

crochet chart showing final round for joining motifs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“Join As You Go” crochet tips

 

If you are new to the “join as you go” technique, I would recommend implementing the following tips:

1. Work at a table so that you can lay the pieces flat. If you’re inexperienced, this technique isn’t well suited for lap work on the sofa!
2. Place a stitch marker in the centre section of your first motif – this helps you to keep orientated.
3. Before you join the next motif, decide where the joining points are going to be on the existing piece of work. Place stitch markers at the join points.
4. If you have 2 different coloured stitch markers, even better! Use one colour to mark corners and another colour for the ch8 section join. This is is particularly useful to help you keep track of where you are and what needs doing next.
5. Make as much of the final round as possible before joining – for example, if you’re joining along one side with two corners, make round four up the point where you need to join, i.e. the third corner. If you start off joining at the first two corners, you have to complete the remainder of the motif while it’s attached to the main body of the work, this can become quite cumbersome when the work becomes larger with more motifs.
6. Make sure, each time you join a new motif, that the work is facing the right way up!
7. Regularly lay the work out flat on the table and check all is well.
8. Don’t worry if it looks a bit scruffy. Once you’ve sewn in the ends and blocked, it will look much more presentable!